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Enign Blather
01-26-2006, 05:38 PM
So... I am finally building an old estes V-2.

Here's the question: Anyone know any GOOD way to get around putting a big old launch lug on this. I thought about putting it on the stuffer tube, but the problem is I either have to put a hole in the nose cone - not really desired - or use a REALLY short launch rod (~18 inches or so) -which does not sound like a good idea based on how heavy this is.

It's kind of funny - I've never really considered this probably common problem before - since this is my time building a scale model. Let me know what y'all think.

Thanks,
EB

CPMcGraw
01-26-2006, 06:09 PM
So... I am finally building an old estes V-2.

Here's the question: Anyone know any GOOD way to get around putting a big old launch lug on this. I thought about putting it on the stuffer tube, but the problem is I either have to put a hole in the nose cone - not really desired - or use a REALLY short launch rod (~18 inches or so) -which does not sound like a good idea based on how heavy this is.

It's kind of funny - I've never really considered this probably common problem before - since this is my time building a scale model. Let me know what y'all think.
Thanks,
EB

Eliminate the launch lug completely, and build a tower. Making it at least 48" tall will help the stability by allowing the model to reach a safe flying speed before the model goes off "on its own". It's a bit more complicated than a simple rod; think of it as having three rods which the model slips in between, with clearance allowed for the fins...

Three straight lengths of polished hard copper pipe, mounted in several layers of 3/4" exterior plywood, with a large blast deflector in the center, might make a simple tower...

stefanj
01-26-2006, 06:13 PM
Well, you could put on rail buttons. That would mean getting a rail, of course.

You might use a few small wire loops rather than lugs. They'd have to be really sturdy, and you'd need a few to prevent binding.

An internal lug might not be that bad. You could carefully cut a panel out of the nose cone for the rod to poke through, and replace it while the model is on display.

barone
01-26-2006, 09:34 PM
Craig's idea of a tower is a logical way to go if you're looking at not detracting from scale appearance. As he said, a little more complicated than the rod. I saw one that was simply wooden dowels drilled into a wooden base. One dowel on the outside edge of the base had a launch lug on it so you could set the tower launcher on a regular pad (of course we were using it to launch minimum diameter duration rockets). And, if you planned on only using it for the Maxi V2, the tower rods could be permanently mounted in position. More difficult, adjustable rods that would accomodate various size body diameters.

The rod through the nose cone can also be done with little impact on the scale appearance. I've heard (never actually seen) that a flap (hole cut with just enough plastic on one edge to act as a hinge) was used on the nose cone that would open as the rocket was placed on the rod and close when it left the rod. But it always seemed to me that the flap would have to open up, which could cause a bind on the rod as the rocket launched.

Something that might work also is mounting the launch lug on the inside of the body tube (not the stuffer). A very small amount of the nose cone would have to be removed to get the rod through, but it would probably be less noticable coming at the BT-nose cone joint. Of course, you'd want to use a launch lug that carried all the way through the so as not to have parachute-wadding-shroud lines hang on the rod as you're launching (long hollow aluminum tube maybe :confused: ). Anyway.....good luck.

Don
NAR 53455

CPMcGraw
01-26-2006, 11:21 PM
Craig's idea of a tower is a logical way to go if you're looking at not detracting from scale appearance. As he said, a little more complicated than the rod. I saw one that was simply wooden dowels drilled into a wooden base. One dowel on the outside edge of the base had a launch lug on it so you could set the tower launcher on a regular pad (of course we were using it to launch minimum diameter duration rockets).

Don, how well did the all-wood tower actually work? I've never seen wood dowels that were really "straight enough" to work that way, especially those longer than about 24"; most have been warped, twisted, kinked... everything except straight...:(

barone
01-27-2006, 06:32 AM
The dowels were only about 15" long. We were launching minimum diameter C duration so they didn't have to be too long to get stable flights. That short, they are fairly straight. But you're right......can't find a long one straight enough, let alone three. I'm working on one now using 4' long 1 X 1/4 flat aluminum for rails. Channel aluminum for supports. Adjustable to 4" body diameters. I use a camera tripod for launching and my rail launcher is being designed to fit into the chuck where the launch rod would normally.

Don
NAR 53455

Enign Blather
01-27-2006, 04:42 PM
Wow! Great suggestions everyone. Thanks for the help.

I think that I'll go with Craig's idea of the tower & do away with the lug totally. (The other ideas were good too - rail, loops, etc.)

But I think I'll need four rods since it is a four fin rocket.

Rather than going with wood dowels, I'm thinking maybe using 5 foot steel rods with 1 foot in a lower box to clamp on to the rods and the remaining 4 feet out to guide the rocket. Then I can overlay the steel rods with a teflon tube to minimize binding and any rub damage.
I can make the box dedicated to the V-2 (Hole placement) and then use the rods for future projects

Will keep you guys posted on the progress.

Thanks again

Rocketking
02-21-2006, 06:42 AM
The trouble is, in going with 4 guides, that the friction increases with each guide rail added. With an increase of friction comes a decrease in speed...

Give it some thought. :)

CPMcGraw
02-21-2006, 11:31 AM
The trouble is, in going with 4 guides, that the friction increases with each guide rail added. With an increase of friction comes a decrease in speed...

Give it some thought. :)

When locating the guide rods, you're going to have a certain amount of "slop", or "play" between them and the side of the rocket. In a tower, the rocket essentially flies free from the moment of ignition, but the guide rods keep the pointy-end up; it doesn't rub the rods as much as it sounds like it would.