Astro-Blaster Clone
 

I started this project six years ago and I put it away when I couldn't figure out how to attach the aileron linkage to the servos once the wing is in place. It doesn't make sense! Whoever designed this was not an aircraft model designer. I took it out again yesterday after finding the instructions and I said to myself, "Self, this still ' expletive' " I need help.

I plan a redesign by making the entire top removable from the back of the wing to the front of the canopy. That makes sense to me!

I don't have a radio yet but I wondered if I should make this a free flight boost glider?

Anybody do this?

It's a tight fit, but as long as you put the ends on the torque rods before you glued the wing on, you should be able to slip the linkages down from the front and over the ends. A pair of hemostats works better than needle nose pliers as described in the instructions.

If you don't have the nylon ends on the torque rods, you'll be needing to cut a hatch in the top over where they are.

kj

ROFL! That's like saying whoever designed the P-38, U-2, and SR-71 was not an aircraft designer.

You need to google "Larry Renger model plane". If the first few hits from "all" are not enough, be SURE to check out the first few hits from "Images".

Lot's of famous stuff there, firsts for model rocketry boost gliders, and also a hell of a lot of popular and famous sport R/C model aircraft.

Although, to be fair, the prototype he made up for the Astro Blaster was different (had a different name too but looked much the same other than a few details). For whatever reasons, someone else took over the design for the final kit version.

Did you google for and find instructions snd plans for the Astro Blaster on the internet? They are out there. The instructions would have indicated what steps to take, in what sequence, to avoid painting yourself into a corner like you apparently have. Or did you just "wing it"? :)

Perhaps if you posted in another forum , which has a rocket boosted glider subforum, you might find some help on what you could do to solve the problem as it now exists. I do think there is a not-too-hard fix, which has been done before with a similar model, similar to what Renger’s original prototype had done.

- George Gassaway

Thank you George for your post. You are one of my rocket hero's.

I can still take it apart(wing from fuse)

I got the plans and instructions from a member here on YORF.

I knew Larry designed the AB, I'm just frustrated.

I've built and flown R/C model aircraft since the late 70's, rubber since the late 60's.

Other forum? TRF? No thanks.

Great! I can't tell from the photo, are the nylon ends on the torque rods?

If not, get them on before you do the final assembly.Then all you have to worry about is working the open end of the clevis, over the end and getting it shut. You can even angle the torque rod up towards the front hatch to make it easier to get at, and like I said, hemostats work pretty good for getting leverage down on the linkage.

Or if you prefer, cut a hole back there- personally I wouldn't make changes to the structure, but hey, it's not my model.

kj

Thanks Kevin.

I don't own a pair of hemostats, don't plan to either.

The nylon ends are not on yet, still looking for them in my shop. They are packed up.

I think I'll put it away again until next winter.

Too bad, they are helpful tools. You could try needlenosed pliers, but they are a little bulky for the job.

kj

WHAAT?? Hemostats are about the handiest tool I have, next to a good sharp hobby knife...

Especially if you grind the serrations off the inside of the jaws so they're smooth jawed...

Cheap, too... you can usually find them in a jar at the checkout of Ace Hardwares (and similar hardware stores) for a buck or so each... I've got about 8-10 of them, all ground down smooth to eliminate the serrations...

VERY handy! OL J R :)