Testors non-toxic cement for plastic models
Hello All,
The Testors non-toxic (tube-type) cement for plastic models (it comes in an "alicorn lightning pale blue" tube) came up in Reply #10 in *this* thread about the Estes Generic E2X bulk kit changes (see: http://www.oldrocketforum.com/showt...2903#post162903 ). I haven't used this cement myself, but I have been told by a local hobby shop owner that while it is lousy at bonding plastic, it is a good paper-to-paper and paper-to-wood cement. This got me ruminating on the following: If this cement has physical characteristics (when dry) that are like those of the regular tube-type Testors cement for plastic models (and its equivalents made by other manufacturers), it might have several very convenient model rocketry applications (including in school and youth group model rocketry programs). These include: [1] "Plastic sanding sealer & balsa wood grain filler"; The cement could be brushed (or "squeegeed," using a piece of scrap balsa) onto balsa fins and nose cones, being sanded smooth after the cement dried. This should also strengthen those parts as well as make their surfaces more dent-resistant. [2] "Paper laminating glue for balsa fins"; White glue and yellow glue work well for cementing laminating paper to balsa fins, but these glues' moisture content can cause the paper to expand and bulge outward, creating little domes on the paper skins. If the Testors non-toxic cement for plastic models does not cause this problem with paper, it would be a good substitute for white and yellow glues for laminating fins. If so, the Testors cement could also be used to apply thin, moisture-resistant "film" coatings to parts of rockets (such as the lower ends of motor mount tubes, for example) that tend to get wet when flying on damp, grassy fields. [3] This cement might be useful (particularly on small rockets) for balsa-to-paper joints such as balsa fins glued onto kraft paper body tubes, as well as paper-to-paper joints such as launch lugs glued onto body tubes. It might also work for gluing motor mounts and thrust rings into body tubes, although given the heat of the motor ejection charge it would probably be best to reserve these glue joints for white glue or yellow glue. I hope this information will be helpful. |
The Testors Blue-Tube Plastic cement contains d-Limonene as the main bonding agent.
It is LOUSY for EVERYTHING. You would be much better off using Green or Yellow Tube Testors WOOD Cement for a sealer or for bonding paper skins to fins. Put the Blue Tube glue where it belongs. In the GARBAGE CAN. |
Agree with GH completely!
The green tube that is the wood glue sucks badly as well. It is terrible in that it has little bonding strength and becomes brittle once dry. Much better alternatives exist to the Testor's adhesives; why they maintain these ridiculously awful formulations is a mystery to me. They all suck massively, and I refuse to use them anymore. They all should be pulled from the market in my opinion. Allen |
Quote:
Quote:
|
Please report back your results! I'm always on the lookout for a better use for something.
I've exhausted the normal uses for these adhesives; I'd love to know a good alternative use other than the thrash can! :D Allen |
Blackshire, BITE YOUR TONGUE ! Orange tube is PLEASANTLY aromatic, NOT UNpleasantly.
Actually the Orange tube stuff only has about 1/2 the Toluene it used to. I literally squeeze the tube out into a jar and mix it with about 1/2oz of Toluene and apply it with a micro-brush for bonding plastics. It then works like the same cement from the 40's through late 80's. Buying any size tube of the Testors blue-tube cement at ANY price is a total waste of money. If one uses the green-tube or yellow-tube wood glue as described in the directions, they will at least form a serviceable bond. The blue-tube stuff is good for nothing but maybe a campfire-starter gel. |
Quote:
I agree on the aroma, and the weakened state of modern orange tube stuff! Tick? What tick? |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
It doesn't hurt to try something new. I would think that using something water-based for school children (depending on their age) might be better when it comes to clean-up. That way you won't have angry moms coming for you because they could not get the stain out of their child's clothes.
When it comes to plastic modeling, I typically use CA. It bonds well and doen't stink like typical model glue. |
When building Plastic Models/parts I almost ALWAYS reach for Tenax7R or one of the Liquid Plastruct cements. I hate CA for plastics; it does NOT weld them, it bonds them which is far weaker. It's like comparing the strength of a butt-joint to a lap joint----NO comparison.
Testors Liquid plastic cement used to be a 50/50 mix of MIBK (Methyl Iso Butyl Ketone) and MEK and was a pretty decent moderate-dry-time liquid cement. The same Testors cement no longer has the MIBK and is just straight MEK. It now also SUCKS and takes far too long to dry. If one wants a pretty close approximation of the old formula Testors Liquid Cement, just use Sig Butyrate Dope Thinner. That thinner is basically the same stuff with a little Butyl Acetate and Acetone in it. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:22 PM. |
Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.