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Old 01-04-2019, 12:17 PM
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Tau Zero Tau Zero is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Twin Falls, Idaho, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
This is just my take on glues and fillers.
This is primarily concerning balsa, basswood or plywood.

[SNIP]

Yes, I am old school.

I use almost exclusively Elmer's white glue. I started using it from my beginning in my hobby career in 1961 and nothing but.

The double glue and pin hole rivets method of attaching fins with Elmer's works so well I see no point in changing my technique.

When my fins are attached and the Elmer's joint is dry I get out a dedicated "glue brush" marked "GLUE ONLY" to coat both sides of each fin and at least one coat on the nose cone.

I use Elmer's straight out of the bottle, undiluted.

A bit of brushing evens it out on the nose cone and on the fins an old credit card smooths off the glue on the fins.

I never had any warping on my fins as long as the Elmer's is applied after the fin is glued onto the model.

The Elmer's soaks in and seals the wood bonding into the wood, not just on the surface.
A very light sanding with 220 grit knocks the raised knap(sp) of the wood and is the final prep for paint.

This does not hide the wood grain but seals it completely so that the first coat of paint or primer bonds right to the glue and doesn't just get soaked up by the balsa.

Balsa can really drink up a lot of paint! The Elmer's stops that.

Maybe two coats of filler primer and the grain almost disappears.
<BUMP> to resurface this thread.

Good thoughts, Gordy! Thanks for sharing!

You specifically mentioned Elmer's white glue.

Thinking this through, since yellow glue tends to dry (relatively) harder than white glue, it seems that it would be harder to sand any "extra" white glue. Yes?

YORF Hivemind, please weigh in and confirm/deny my suspicions, if you would. Thanks in advance!
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