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Old 05-23-2013, 02:59 AM
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Mark II Mark II is offline
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If the parts can be easily placed in position and the mating surfaces fit closely together, then you could go with CA. It isn't always the best choice, though. Epoxy should work well, especially if the parts are difficult to position properly and could potentially require some fine adjustments before the adhesive fully sets. If shear strength was important, then you would need to go with epoxy.

Polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue or Elmer's ProBond) would also work if appearance was not an issue. PU glue makes impressively strong bonds. Household or construction contact cement will also work; this is traditionally the adhesive of choice for Mylar.

Mylar is stretched polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the same material that bottled water bottles are made from. It is different from polyacetal polymer (Delrin) and polyurethane. Delrin is particularly difficult to bond due to its low coefficient of friction and high resistance to abrasion. (The surface to be bonded must be prepared by acid etching.) Mylar can also be a bonding challenge, but any of the above suggestions should work, especially if you are able to abrade the surface slightly beforehand.
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