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  #1  
Old 04-25-2017, 09:42 PM
BronzeGiant BronzeGiant is offline
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Default Favorite Adhesive

So, what's everyone's favorite type of glue to use when assembling rockets. My favorite was and always will be the yellow Ambroid Liquid Cement in the white and orange tube. Sometimes it's kinda hard to find so I stock up when I see it on the shelf. Anybody else use this?

Steve
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2017, 11:06 PM
stefanj stefanj is offline
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I have heard of but have never used yellow Ambroid.

I suppose my go-to adhesive is yellow carpenter's glue of various brands.

Sometimes Elmer's white glue, when yellow glue's tendency to shrink would cause problems.

20 minute epoxy for high power stuff.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:54 AM
Rob Campbell Rob Campbell is offline
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I haven't seen Ambroid in around 30 years. It was great stuff. I'm now partial to CA, epoxy, carpenter's glue, and occasionally, Gorilla Glue.
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  #4  
Old 04-26-2017, 09:45 AM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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For LPR I mostly use white and yellow carpenter's glue. I use CA, epoxy, contact cement, the modern equivalent of 3M-77 (forget the number), and Tenax 7R in a few specialty situations. Probably left out one or two.
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:43 AM
Scott6060842 Scott6060842 is offline
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Stuff I use:

Elmer glue all, Elmer Carpenters wood glue, Tenex 7r (for plastic), Allenes tacky glue (for wraps) , Titebond mold and trim glue (A must have for fillets on small rockets), Bob Smith 15 minute epoxy (large fillets, etc.), CA

Bondo glaze and spot putty
Future floor polish
Pactra vintage balsa filler coat - Midwest sanding sealer

If you want to make a trick rocket that falls apart in flight use orange testers plastic cement
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2017, 06:09 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Ambroid (and Sig-Ment) along with Testors Cenent (both yellow and green tube) are extremely WEAK adhesives for attaching fins on rockets and is even worse for engine mount use. I would never use it even for 1/2A mini-motor power stuff. If it works for you and it is what you like, go for it.

For LPR up to 24mm C11 power I attach with Titebond II and fillet with 15 or 30 min Epoxy. The strength of epoxy is not required for under a high-thrust full 80 n-sec F, but it makes totally even, single-pass, ultra strong fillets.

For all 24mm D12 power and-up I use 15-min Epoxy to attach fins and 30-min Epoxy for fillets. I build the engine mount(s) with 30-min Epoxy. I use quality aircraft-grade Epoxy, not junk hardware store stuff.

I don't ever use 5-min Epoxy; that stuff is weak junk.

Is Epoxy really neccessary below say an H250 ?
Maybe not, but I NEVER have fins separate from tubes on landing and the extra weight is negligible.

For plastic cement I almost always use Tenax 7R plastic weldor.

I use medium-thickness Super Jet CA for limited use in rocket building where appropriate, but use a lot of it for building R/C aircraft.

For Balsa grain-filling I use Vintage Pactra Aero Gloss products. 3 coats of Balsa Fillercoat followed by 2-3 coats of Sanding Sealer.

For Contact Cement where required, I use vintage Sig Core-Bond which primarily is used for attaching 1/32" Balsa or 1/64" plywood skins to R/C Pattern-Airplane foam wing cores. It works well for attaching body wraps to rocket tubes.
For clear-canopies I use R/C 56 glue.
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2017, 06:33 PM
BronzeGiant BronzeGiant is offline
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Default Favorite Adhesive

I have never had a problem with Ambroid and will probably use it as long as I can get it. Buit I'll agree it's not for everybody. I do use it to make a fillet where the fin joins the body tube and if a fin has separated during landing it's usually a case of "the fin would have come off no matter what you glued it on with." If you know what I mean.

I've never had any luck with the super glues as the parts are usually too porous and they suck up all of the real thin glues.

In my area Tenax 7-R is about as scarce as Ambroid gets sometimes. I haven't seen it in a long time. I used to use it when I build plastic model cars but it seemed to evaporate too quickly and was so thin that it would run under your fingertips before you knew it and then you'd have a fingertip whorl branded into the plastic part.
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2017, 07:57 PM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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Elmers Glue All.
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2017, 10:51 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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ELMER'S ???????
C'mon Noww....
You MUST be joking....even if not, that's a BAD JOKE.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2017, 11:00 PM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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Nope, been using it since the 70s with no problems what so ever. I still fly my Goldberg Cub I built in the 80s with Elmers and still going strong today.
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