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  #41  
Old 11-20-2016, 07:47 AM
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neil_w neil_w is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pem Tech

What have you done with Gary?!


The less said about that, the better. Next question!
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  #42  
Old 11-20-2016, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil_w
The less said about that, the better. Next question!


Move along, nothin' ta' see here.
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  #43  
Old 11-26-2016, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clhug
I've seen other people mention papering fins. Can you explain what that means? ....Thanks!


Here is an example of papering fins, and even body tubes, not necessarily for grain or spiral seam filling purposes, but for creating complex patterns without having to mask and paint and decal, just print everything on your ink-jet. Finishing a cardstock model just requires clear-coat: gloss, satin, matte, whatever you prefer. No primering, sanding, or decals needed.

For example, Dr. Zooch kits typically include body tube wraps, and on these particular ASTP Saturn 1B and Soyuz, the boosters & tanks themselves are rolled from cardstock paper. (the Saturn 1B here are wraps made by Rosco Racer, not the stock wraps in the kit) The kit fins are cut from balsa and require painting to match the body tube roll pattern, but I had another idea to print up my own paper fin wraps with the roll pattern pre-printed, and for those little transition filler parts that go between the tanks.
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Last edited by GlenP : 11-26-2016 at 02:52 PM.
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  #44  
Old 01-02-2017, 02:05 PM
leftover leftover is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke strawwalker
The Walmart "Color Place" red and grey primers do an excellent job for me, and they're 99 cents a can...

Otherwise, I use the Rustoleum high fill autobody wet sandable primer... good stuff!

later! OL J R

I second this opinion I use the on rockets as well as plastics and resin kits
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  #45  
Old 01-10-2017, 10:48 AM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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There are sure a few ways to skin a cat that is for sure........ Going back to the original post of the Estes instructions now reading.... prime the model, sand, prime again and repeat til smooth. I have tried this technique and it does work but you do use a lot of primer paint and added weight, not to mention all the sanding. The old Estes and Centuri instructions have you brush on 3 to 4 coats of sanding sealer or filler sanding between each coat then paint. This is how most of us did it back in the day and how I still do it. Even as a kid this technique would give me a pretty nice looking rocket. I really enjoy the look of a built rocket before painting, with the bare balsa and cardboard, balsa parts so papering is out of the question for me. My last couple of builds I have been using Sand N Seal by Deluxe materials and it works pretty good. Aerogloss sealer has always been my sealer of choice but it is no longer being made......Dang tree huggers. I have tried Fill N Finish but too much sanding and a big mess for me to use. The Sand N Seal is pretty cool because now I seal my balsa at work since it does not produce an odor.
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  #46  
Old 01-10-2017, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scigs30
There are sure a few ways to skin a cat that is for sure........ Going back to the original post of the Estes instructions now reading.... prime the model, sand, prime again and repeat til smooth. I have tried this technique and it does work but you do use a lot of primer paint and added weight, not to mention all the sanding. The old Estes and Centuri instructions have you brush on 3 to 4 coats of sanding sealer or filler sanding between each coat then paint. This is how most of us did it back in the day and how I still do it. Even as a kid this technique would give me a pretty nice looking rocket. I really enjoy the look of a built rocket before painting, with the bare balsa and cardboard, balsa parts so papering is out of the question for me. My last couple of builds I have been using Sand N Seal by Deluxe materials and it works pretty good. Aerogloss sealer has always been my sealer of choice but it is no longer being made......Dang tree huggers. I have tried Fill N Finish but too much sanding and a big mess for me to use. The Sand N Seal is pretty cool because now I seal my balsa at work since it does not produce an odor.


Hmm, I may give that a try, always looking for odor-free methods. How many coats do you typically need? Do you do it pre- or post-assembly (as a kid I did everything post-assembly, but with some complex LPR designs that gets difficult).

And lastly, where do you buy the stuff?
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  #47  
Old 01-10-2017, 05:42 PM
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I have found that Sand N Seal takes 4 coats for a grain free finish. I first tried it with 3 coats and it was not quite enough. Eze Dope also works well. I am finishing up a Estes Photon Probe that I used Sand N Seal on and it worked great, will post pictures when I am done painting. I have tried applying not fins not glued to the rocket and yes it will warp until you do the second side. Also after the 4th coat you could let dry for an hour then place between to heavy flat objects and the next day it is perfectly flat. Here is my first review with this stuff. P.S I still love Aerogloss but like I said it is hard to come by. Sig makes a sanding sealer but I don't want to order it online since nobody around me sells it. All the hobby stores around me sell Deluxe materials supplies.

http://www.oldrocketforum.com/showthread.php?t=14244
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  #48  
Old 01-12-2017, 10:49 PM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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Here is a recent build I am doing using Sand N Seal.
http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/show...1305#post211305
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  #49  
Old 01-13-2017, 07:12 AM
astronwolf astronwolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scigs30
Here is a recent build I am doing using Sand N Seal.
http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/show...1305#post211305

How does the added mass compare to older or more traditional methods?
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  #50  
Old 01-13-2017, 08:38 AM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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I don't know how much weight would be added if this had more balsa, but on this rocket the weight really did not change.
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