#51
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All of mine are challenged by way of fins and decals.
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Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
#52
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I have in the past made light of some of Quest product selections but I cannot fault their customer service. I just received a small package contianing two sets of corrected fins for the Stiletto. So thank you Nettie and thank you Quest.
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Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
#53
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Nettie is very helpful. On a side note, the tubes in my Stilletto kit were easily the best tubes I have ever received in a Quest kit. They are white tubes, but I'll go a step further and say they best white tubes I have ever seen. Very sturdy and almost seems like they are a touch thicker than normal. No seams either. These are a huge step up from some of the tubes I have gotten in Quest kits over the years. I'm guessing the Stilettos are being kitted here in the U.S. The engine mount rings are very flimsy. Barely usable, but I reinforced them with cereal box cardboard. Much better now. Anyone else beef up the rings, or did you figure they were good to go, as is?
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#54
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That's good to know. Was there any word about increasing the amount of decals to make it match the packaging photo?
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#55
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OK, I'm cheap. I did not want to pay the price of one of the Advanced kits from Quest ($20-40), but I did order a T50 tube for $2, and the PNC50 nose cone for $3. Very nice tube, and I might also conclude that it is one of the best tubes I've found. The nose cone was nice as well, and a really long shoulder on it. Two centering rings for 24mm motor added another $1 (I thought they seemed fine.) This is a very affordable way to get most of what is needed to build your own "advanced" model. Granted no fins or chute, but I have plenty of balsa and basswood, and LOTS of chutes. The stick-on decals I'm not too worried about. I can go order something in vinyl from stickershock, or waterslide from sandman, if I want. I did order a bunch of Q2G2 igniters, since I felt compelled to place a reasonably good sized order from Quest.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#56
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Shows up as available now for $26.99. Is that a price increase? (Thought it was originally around $15.00.) |
#57
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It's $8.99 at Bellevillehobby.com Just the PARTS are probably worth that!
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#58
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It is now $17.99 at Belleville. Hey, I see they now list the Quest Minotaur on their site for $32.99 now. |
#59
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Did any of you that built the Stilletto find issue with the rudder fin? It seems to me the notch in the rudder fin should sit flush on top of the intake tube, but there is about an 1/8 gap between the rudder and intake tube. The instructions also call out a 4" mark, which I assume is from the engine mount end, the other mark is at 13" -which leaves 5" at the other end. The rear of the intake tube is supposed to glued at the 4" mark, but the rudder length is 4 and 3/16" where it is supposed to meet the rear of the intake. The rudder is too long, or the mark on the main tube should be 4 and 3/16". I could trim down the root edge of the rudder so it eliminates the gap I described. As a result, this would also shorten the length( and bring down the height), bringing it closer to the 4" mark. How did everyone else handle this, or am I the only one who found these errors?
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#60
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The 4" and 13" are measured from the aft end of the tube. The intake tube is 10" long but you bring this down to 9.5 inches when you place the wrap to cut the bevel. The aft end intake tube should wind up just even with the leading edge of the "stabilizer" when placed on the 4" mark (the root of the stab is about 4 and 3/32 before you sand the edges if the LERX are installed the same way). In practice it is easier to mask if you move the intake tube forward about 1/16th such that you can get to the LE of the aforementioned stabs.
There is a gap in the lower strake whcih needs to be sanded to fit. Make sure that the intake and body tubes are installed with equal spacing on the 120's then test fit the strake. Remove material from the root edge until it fits snugly on the outer edge of the intake tube and the body tube. This could all be moot of course dependent upon if this is an "old" Stiletto with wonky wings or not.
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
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