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#1
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Technique needed flattening dowels
I've searched, and can't seem to find a reliable technique to flatten 1 side of a wooden dowel, ie estes Saturn 5 conduit. I've thought that i might take it to work and clamp it, and machine it with a cnc but that sure seems overkill. Maybe a hole drilled in a block of wood, and using a router to flatten a side. Anyone had a successful technique ?
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#2
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The easiest way is to chunk it into your scrap wood bin for future use and buy some 1/2 round stock.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/pls/pls90887.htm
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#3
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Yeah I bought a bunch of half round evergreen styrene at the hobby shop for just this propose.
OL J R
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#4
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I've done it. This is how I did it:
I started with my flat Corian board covered with 220 grit. I then cut a piece of straight, 1/4" basswood or birch dowel approx. 6" longer than what I need. I'm right handed, so using the meaty part of my left palm as a guide I hold the dowel in my right hand and pull the dowel across the 220, repeating until half of the diameter is scraped off. It takes a while, but it's not terribly hard to do. The key is having the 220 grit taped to an absolutely flat surface.
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#5
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Jeff,
Did your process also require the use of your Herculean thighs? Not intending to get personal, just looking for guidance, based on your posts in the past about your Corian board sanding techniques ...
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#6
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Quote:
My Herculean thighs were not required for the aforementioned operation--the constant rippling of the muscles would have made the Corian board unstable. In this case the Corian board was C-clamped to my bench.
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#7
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I was thinking a router table would work, if you use a straight bit long as the dowel diameter. You just need to use some feather boards to hold the dowel in place against the table and the fence. Drill a square section block at one end to keep it from spinning. Do not remove a full half in one pass, but take several small shallow passes to work up to the final shape. The outfeed fence needs to have a shim that is about the same thickness as what you are removing in that pass. Like you are edge-jointing a panel on the router table. Note that the dowels will probably warp and twist when you cut them as you are releasing stress grown into the wood grain, so I would keep the lengths fairly short, only slightly longer than the final cut needed.
one example for a really large dowel: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/f...s-router-table/ http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031114wb.html http://www.finewoodworking.com/2008...gs-featherboard |
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