#1
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Looking for tips: unwarping a glider body
I’m working on a 2.28x Tercel, and I’ve noticed the body has picked up a bend.
It’s a 3mm bend. The construction is basswood over foamcore. I’m planning on capping the laminate with balsa. I’ve only done the nose so far. Any suggestions for straightening this thing out?
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#2
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Moisture and a press/books. If it turns in flight that is a good thing and requires less wing clay.
Just Jerry |
#3
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Another option is a heat gun. It works well, with moisture, to get parts straight. If clamping is difficult, you may even be able to hold it for a few minutes in the correct position long enough for cooling to cause it to set in its new position.
If you don’t have a heat gun, you can get them for as little as $10 at Harbor Freight, using a 20% off coupon.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#4
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I'm concerned that it might "spiral" or "corkscrew", during boost. Dave F. |
#5
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This. I'll add patience to that. Maybe if you used something to anchor the glider to your work table in the position shown in the photo, like a book or somekind of weight. Use a rubber band to deflect the boom aft of the wing's trailing edge so that it's straight. You'll have to rig something up to do this. Moisten the boom in the area just aft of the trailing edge of the wing. Don't get the wing wet. Allow to dry overnight, and check for straightness the next day. Repeat if necessary.
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-Wolfram v. Kiparski NAR 28643 - TRA 15520 MTMA Section #606 President |
#6
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I'm also more concerned about boost than glide. Thanks for the suggestions, gents. I'm hoping the capping - turning the laminate into a box - will help stabilize it - but I'd like to get it straight first. I'll try heat before moisture, as I suspect moisture got me into this pickle in the first place. Laminated with TBII. How I did the body, clamped to a launch rail. And the capping around the nose. 1/32” balsa, ammonia shaped.
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#7
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If you moisten wood with ammonia water (Ajax, BoPeep, etc) the wood flexes much easier than with plain water.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC ! |
#8
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The use of Ammonia & Water would work on an all wood fuselage, but he used a foam "core" for the fuselage, with Basswood sides bonded to the foam. On an all-wood fuselage, Steam could also be used, but I am concerned about how the foam might react to the heat. I'm wondering if the warping was either caused by a reaction between the foam and the adhesive used or if the fuselage was un-clamped too soon, before it had fully dried / cured . Dave F. |
#9
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I don't think ammonia would attack any foam.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC ! |
#10
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I wasn't thinking about the Ammonia attacking the foam. I was thinking that since the wood was bonded to the foam, the Ammonia would only penetrate the wood and, as a result, not allow the wood to remain straightened if the foam is causing the warping. Dave F. |
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