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  #31  
Old 02-08-2009, 06:40 AM
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mrhemi1971 mrhemi1971 is offline
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I want to know who makes that F-104, is that a kit?

Beautiful paint work too..I've been using airbrushes and paint spray guns for over 25 years of painting custom cars and motorcycles , I mostly use automotive paints because of durability and ease of getting whatever color I want. I know alot of people may get intimidated by the cleanup of using paint equipment, but in reality, the cleanup is not bad at all. The results you get far outweigh the tiny bit of work you have to do afterwards.

I highly recommend that if you're on the fence, jump in you'll love it!
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2009, 10:48 PM
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What with this being an airbrush article, I thought I would add some actual airbrush info and pictures.

The first picture below shows three different types of airbrush. All three should be attached to an air compressor or other device to provide constant pressure between 10-40 lbs. They can spray oil- or water-based paints.

On top is an Iwata HP-C dual-action (about $175). The trigger on top is depressed to allow the compressed air to flow. The trigger is then moved rearward to admit an increasing amount of paint, which is gravity fed from the cup on top, into the internal airflow . The user continues to adjust the amount of paint by moving the trigger fore and aft. The spray pattern is controlled by adjusting the needle valve in the front of the brush. The cup doesn't hold much paint, but it's enough to spray a small rocket. This is a mighty fancy rig for spraying rockets.

In the middle is a Badger 200 single-action (about $75). The trigger controls airflow; the amount of paint flow is not adjustable during spraying. When the trigger is depressed, airflow passes over an internal tube leading to the paint reservoir lowering the air pressure which syphons the paint out of the jar and into the stream of air. The paint and air mix internally and spray out through the needle valve. The paint pattern can be adjusted at the needle or the needle itself replaced with a course (smaller) needle to allow more paint flow. This is a great all-purpose airbrush. This one is about 20 years old.

On the bottom is a Badger spray gun, model and price unknown but roughly equivalent to a Badger 250 (about $30). I've had this one for more than 25 years. Depressing the trigger causes air to flow over the top of the tube leading to the paint reservoir, lowering the pressure and causing the paint to flow into the airstream. Air and paint mix externally in a relatively broad, circular pattern. There is no adjustable needle valve for the spray pattern. This is a straight replacement for a spray can and is all you need for 95% of all rocket painting.

The second picture shows some handy accessories including a small compressor, which starts at about $75 and goes up (quickly) from there. The alternatives are a bottle of Propel compressed gas or an airtank or even a large inner tube and the proper adaptor to fit your airbrush.

Also shown is a large reservoir bottle for the Badgers which holds several ounces of paint and is perfect for larger models (like spraying white on a Semroc Saturn 1b). I keep a number of big and small bottles and lids handy for any project. Custom colors can be stored in these bottles.

The last little chingadera (Spanish for "thing of unknown name") is a ceramic cleaning bottle. You spray your remaining paint and cleaning fluid into this filtered bottle during the clean-up or color change process. I use only acrylics and nettoyant acrylic cleaner or water so my clean-up is relatively non-toxic. Unless I have to transfer a lot of paint back into the original container, I can change colors in less than 2 minutes and clean-up in less than 5.

Once you've done it a few times, basic airbrushing is very easy. It will allow you to use colors that are simply not available in spray can, like Delta blue or the dark red original Ferrari color. I can spray on Future floorpolish clear coats that are dry by the time I'm spraying the other end of the rocket. If you're not going to be spraying swimsuits on supermodels or something equally exotic, you don't need a super fancy airbrush. And the best part is, with proper cleaning and minor maintenance, they will last forever.
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Last edited by MarkB. : 04-04-2009 at 11:19 PM.
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  #33  
Old 04-04-2009, 11:46 PM
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Guys,

Would you please post a few pics of your "spray station". Do you do this indoors? Do you have a paint booth? What do you do about overspray?

Thanks
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  #34  
Old 04-05-2009, 11:14 AM
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Gus,

I use the cardboard box that a case of Gatorade comes in. I spray at low pressure (about 12 lbs. ) on our kitchen island or in the summer, in the garage. There is little overspray if you have the needle set correctly. I wipe the counter with 409 when I'm done in case anything wasn't caught in the box. Have I been successful? Well, I have no complaints from my wife. . . .

But I only use flat acrylics which are water soluable when drying.
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Awaiting First Launch: Too numerous to count
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  #35  
Old 10-21-2009, 11:32 AM
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Default masking the flames

what's your technique for masking off the body tube to airbrush the flames? i can't figure this one out. thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ScaleNut
here's a few rockets using createx









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  #36  
Old 12-19-2010, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbryantphoto
what's your technique for masking off the body tube to airbrush the flames? i can't figure this one out. thanks.

One name for it is 'frisket' paper. It usually comes in rolls from places like Dick Blick or other major art supply outfits, and it is basically a clear plastic low-adhesive sheet on a wax paper backing that you can cut shapes from for masking.
I imagine some people might use contact paper, but you better make sure it won't stick to your previous paint layers.
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  #37  
Old 12-19-2010, 01:36 PM
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Great job and good advice Scalenut. I too like to build scale models and have used some airbrush techniques when painting my rockets. I also like the low odor and easy water clean-up that acrylic paints provide.
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  #38  
Old 12-19-2010, 04:51 PM
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I used to do a lot of airbrushing (space art, decorative interiors/exteriors, automobile art) and I am familiar with Paasche units. I have alos used Aztek brushes, but I'm not sure how they'd fare with enamels and such, being that they are (were?) made of plastic (I used acrylics). Haven't done anything in a long time, but I still have my brushes.

Rockets may be a good reason to bust it all out again...
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  #39  
Old 12-19-2010, 05:02 PM
chrism chrism is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brain
I used to do a lot of airbrushing (space art, decorative interiors/exteriors, automobile art) and I am familiar with Paasche units. I have alos used Aztek brushes, but I'm not sure how they'd fare with enamels and such, being that they are (were?) made of plastic (I used acrylics). Haven't done anything in a long time, but I still have my brushes.

Rockets may be a good reason to bust it all out again...

Aztek sells nozzles that are made to spray acrylic paint. I use the tan one on my single action and have had no problems with clogging. Check out Testors.com for more info.
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  #40  
Old 12-19-2010, 05:38 PM
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OK I completely missed this thread the first time around. There is a TON of great information in this thread.

I'm hoping it motivates me to finally pickup an airbrush and compressor to give it a try. It looks like for 99% of the rocket painting I would need to do all I need is the cheaper and simpler airbrush.
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