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Old 02-14-2011, 11:45 PM
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Default Paper wrap-ons

Anyone have any tips or preferred foolproof methods for attaching paper wrap-ons. I have to do one for the Little Joe II and I don't even remember the last time I tried to do one of these... probably back in the early-mid 80s...

Help!
Don
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrent
Anyone have any tips or preferred foolproof methods for attaching paper wrap-ons. I have to do one for the Little Joe II and I don't even remember the last time I tried to do one of these... probably back in the early-mid 80s...

Help!
Don


3M-90, sprayed onto the back of the wrap. It has a tackier hold than 3M-77. After attaching the wrap, use thin CA around the edges to seal it. This is how I attached the wraps for the S1B.
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:15 AM
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I'm not knocking the spray adhesives, but this is how I do paper wraps:

I make a puddle of Alleene's Super Tacky glue onto a paper plate. I temporarily attach one end of the wrap onto the BT in it's correct position and alignment with 3M delicate surface (orange core) tape. I lay the wrap around the tube and make pencil lines around each edge. I then begin attaching the free end of the wrap my rubbing the glue onto the BT between the pencil lines and rolling the wrap onto the adhesive in stages--probably about 1 inch at a time. Have a finger bowl and LINT-FREE towel ready to clean your gluing fnger after each stage.

The aforementioned process is how I applied the waps onto this Semroc Orion.

Jeff
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:36 AM
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I'll echo Jeff's method with a couple of additions. Before you start, use an angle (or the ever popular door frame) to draw a longitudinal line along the tube - this will be the line you use to line the wrap up with to begin with. Also, be sure to spread the glue out as thin as possible - this is one of those cases where less is definitely better.

Jeff, I like the idea of using the delicate surface tape. I haven't tried this yet (just thought of it), but I wonder if you couldn't use several post-it notes to hold it in place - they would be even lower tack and will not leave any kind of residue or pull off the top surface of the wrap. Just a thought I'll have to investigate.

Greg
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:56 AM
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I like the idea of the delicate surface tape - good tip.

Jeff,
You can always tell a right handed builder by the spray paint on his left hand thumb and thumbnail!
(It's in the second picture you posted.)
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:07 AM
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Understanding I am a “rookie” model builder, the principle remains the same. I have had experience in using 3M 77 for woodworking projects, such as paper to paper, paper to foam, paper to plastic, etc. I have had great experience with 3M 77 lasting well over 20 years and counting with no issues. I learned of its usage professionally, and use it for various projects now. If done properly, it will not fail…

The key to using this adhesive is hitting both surfaces, with an even coat; waiting about a minute as to get tacky and place it on the surface end to end as similar to what was described earlier. It does not need to be thick and you should not see any uniformity or buildup. Too much will cause failure, not to mention an imperfect surface for painting, lacquering, etc.

So, the only catch in rocket building is you have to tape/protect the model. If thought is given to an easy removal of the protective paper, it should be quick and easy to remove, then allowing you to place the lamination without getting trapped in the sticky mess spray adhesive will cause.

Also, contact cement can work as well.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:47 AM
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Juat one observation - while we are indeed talking paper wraps there is a caution with vacuum formed plastic wraps. Never use standard formula thin CA on a plastic wrap. It will eat into the plastic and cause it to crack. This is true of some injection moulded parts. I had a wingtip split away while putting a brass wire bumper on an airplane. Plasti-Zap is fine, just not thin.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:18 PM
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There are two reasons I don't use 3M spray adhesives any more: First is that the overspray gets everywhere. I've even had it show up on the other side of the paper I was spraying it on while the paper was laying flat on a newspaper. For some reason, that stuff seems to be worse than spray paint when it comes to overspray. The second reason is that I've had the stuff want to glob coming out of the nozzle too much. Sometimes it is a real challenge to get an even coat on whatever you are spraying. As a result, I've found that a thin layer of Elmers white glue is more effective and much easier to clean up after (as Jeff said, keep plenty of water and paper towels handy for cleanup).

Greg
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPRescue
Also, contact cement can work as well.



I have never used 3M spray, but I have to recommend against contact cement - it only gives you one chance to put the wrap on straight.

The next time I put on wraps, I will try initially repositionable permanent scrapbooking tape.


Bill
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:39 PM
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Zooch (Wes Oleszewski ) always recommends using a perimeter gluing to attach paper wraps. Thinly applied PVA all around the edge provides the essential gluing surface and keeps the weight down.
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Last edited by jharding58 : 02-15-2011 at 10:54 PM.
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