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View Poll Results: What SU BP motor is most needed ?
18mm B14-x/B8-x with at least delays of 0,3,5,7 17 33.33%
18mm C5-x 11 21.57%
24mm D20-x 4 7.84%
29mm E/F50-x 5 9.80%
13mm B4-x 10 19.61%
13mm 1/2A3-0T 3 5.88%
18mm D8-x like the old Cox 13n-sec D8-0/3 1 1.96%
Voters: 51. You may not vote on this poll

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  #31  
Old 12-28-2018, 09:24 AM
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Randy Randy is offline
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While the thread is a fun way to dream, 99% of it will never happen. Estes is set to run at max efficiency, for their engines and entire rocket line. Doing what you ask can't be justified in $$$.

Of the choices in the poll, I'd like to see the B-14 series come back and if possible, a D-18 or D-20 series. Other than that, the current line of A, B, C, & D engines are all VERY reliable and I'm sure, very profitable. Why would they trash them to develop the range in the poll just to cater to the smallest faction of their customers? It makes no sense for Estes.

If you need the better kick of a D-20 or C5 just cluster a pair D12's or a pair of C6's.

From what I have SEEN, Estes made the right choice when they dropped the C5 CATO machine. The lower end E's aren't much better below 50*F. I wouldn't use either one, ever.


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  #32  
Old 12-28-2018, 11:04 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Estes had ONE bad batch of C5-3/C5-0 motors out of their entire production run.
ONE batch of C5-3's ONLY.
Makes zero sense to continue the C6-3/0 when the C5 is a much better motor for EVERYTHING.

The E9 is another story and I have about zero use for those.
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  #33  
Old 12-28-2018, 12:08 PM
jetlag jetlag is offline
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Anyone know which batch of C5-3's was the bad one?
I have a bunch and just acquired more, so I'd like to check all of them.

Allen
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  #34  
Old 12-28-2018, 12:35 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Do a forum search here. I think they had an "X" in the date code.
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Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
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Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #35  
Old 12-28-2018, 02:01 PM
jetlag jetlag is offline
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Looks like any C5's with an "X" in the date code were bad, according to Shreadvector. The most recent ones I have are coded C1D6.
No idea what date that would be, though...

Allen
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  #36  
Old 12-28-2018, 02:08 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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As long as there is no "X" in the date code and stored properly, they should be fine.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #37  
Old 01-12-2019, 10:54 AM
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Guess I've been lucky - I've flown quite a few C5-3 (Estes) and C5-0 (Centuri) with no problems. No 'X' date codes, though.
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  #38  
Old 01-12-2019, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
I’m currently building a 24mm booster for a scratch-built Farside-X. I’ll likely fly it on a C11-0 booster first flight, just to give it a nice kick at liftoff, but keep altitude reasonable.
Good move - I built a Centuri T-Bird clone with a 24mm 1st stage, and the C11-0 works great (the one motor I hope returns). It's a little easier with the ST-10 tubing, since a 24mm motor fits within a ST-10 coupler. Will you move the motor back a bit to allow for a coupler?
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  #39  
Old 01-12-2019, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulK
Good move - I built a Centuri T-Bird clone with a 24mm 1st stage, and the C11-0 works great (the one motor I hope returns). It's a little easier with the ST-10 tubing, since a 24mm motor fits within a ST-10 coupler. Will you move the motor back a bit to allow for a coupler?


Paul,

Yes, I’m constructing the booster similar to the Comanche-3 booster. I have not glued in the coupler yet. I haven’t decided how much of the motor should hang out. The Comanche-3 instructions have the coupler inserted 1/2” into the top of the body tube, but the Farside-X have the coupler just 3/8” into the tube. I’d welcome any suggestions, especially those that that have made the change to 24mm booster power. I’m leaning toward having the coupler inserted 3/8”, with the motor hanging out 3/8”.

Here is a picture of my booster with the body tube tabs for fin reinforcement, after gluing, but no fillets. I have given them 4-5 thin applications of Titebond Trim and Molding Glue, wiped after each application, to build up the fillets so the tabs are buried. It’s been really cold here so I’ve not tried to take it outside to prime, and see how it looks. It feels very smooth.
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  #40  
Old 01-12-2019, 12:04 PM
PaulK PaulK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
Paul,

Yes, I’m constructing the booster similar to the Comanche-3 booster. I have not glued in the coupler yet. I haven’t decided how much of the motor should hang out. The Comanche-3 instructions have the coupler inserted 1/2” into the top of the body tube, but the Farside-X have the coupler just 3/8” into the tube. I’d welcome any suggestions, especially those that that have made the change to 24mm booster power. I’m leaning toward having the coupler inserted 3/8”, with the motor hanging out 3/8”.

Here is a picture of my booster with the body tube tabs for fin reinforcement, after gluing, but no fillets. I have given them 4-5 thin applications of Titebond Trim and Molding Glue, wiped after each application, to build up the fillets so the tabs are buried. It’s been really cold here so I’ve not tried to take it outside to prime, and see how it looks. It feels very smooth.
My T-Bird has 1/4" between the top of the 24mm 1st stage motor and the bottom of the 18mm 2nd stage motor, and two vent holes punched in the coupler, which vent as soon as it starts to separate. The coupler inserts 1/2" into the 2nd stage. The booster is a bit longer than the Farside, so the 1st stage motor doesn't hang out.
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