#51
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This is Titebond I, isn't it? (Is it yellow or is it white in color?) Does it have a red label? There is also Titebond II and III. T-II has a blue label, and T-III has a green one. T-II is a rich yellow in color, and T-III is brown. I have never used T-1, but I have used the others (mainly T-III). I also have used Titebond White Glue, too. Mark \\.
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Mark S. Kulka NAR #86134 L1,_ASTRE #471_Adirondack Mountains, NY
Opinions Unfettered by Logic • Advice Unsullied by Erudition • Rocketry Without Pity
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#52
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Somewhere in the forum, someone was kind enough to post the difference between the three Titebonds and the best suited application for each. I'm too lazy to do the search.....
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Don NAR 53455 "Carpe Diem" |
#53
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You're welcome Lee. I must not be expressive enough when I mention this stuff because I think most people would have a reaction similar to yours and mine if they tried it. It's almost like they made it just for making fillets on low power rockets. Next time I post about it I'll add a bunch of exclamation points and profanity!
BTW, NOT sandable. Mark, this is not Titebond 1. It is white and has a consistancy somewhere between Elmers all-purpose and paste. It has a bond strength (on Maple) of 3,000 PSI vs. 3,750 for Titebond II. |
#54
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Hmmm... molding and trim glue eh?? I'm going to have to give that a try. I've heard people RAVE about Titebond, especially Titebond II for a long time. I've always used Elmer's Yellow glue but I sure have noticed a lot of shrinkage on some recent projects. I picked up a bottle like this in the hardware store the other day. It says, "Titeblond II Dark Wood Glue"... I was all excited because I thought I had the same thing as in your pic, but then when I zoomed the pic I noticed your Titeblond is molding and trim glue. I'll have to try that... OL JR
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