#1
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Build thread: 7262 Estes Starship Nova
I'm home from OKC now and I've got some time for building. My Starship Nova kit arrived while I was gone.
The kit's contents are high quality--except for the main BT50 body tube, which (as we already know) is not glassine. It's so flimsy and lame that it's barely good enough to be used as a utility tube (masking, painting nose cones, etc.) Fortunately it's a standard OD and I've cut a premium glassine BT50 to 15" to replace it. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#2
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I've begun by separating and joining the balsa parts of the wings and top fin. The Corian slab greatly facilitates assembling the balsa parts. I've also attached the dowel pieces to the wing and top fin tips.
The engine mount is pretty standard, except as I nearly always do I, attached a 100# Kevlar leader to the mount's top ring and I replaced the rubber shock cord with an elastic fabric shock cord. I then mark the main BT and make the lines with a long piece of aluminum channel. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#3
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The last part I'll do tonight is the faux belly scoop assembly.
Again I use the aluminum channel to mark the short BT50. I then glue the laser cut details onto each end. I'll slit the belly scoop tomorrow after the glue dries completely. Time for some hooch. Good night. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#4
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I've now marked and slit the unused piece from the belly scoop and laid in the lengthwise balsa strips.
Next I mark the main BT50 for placement of the belly scoop assembly, trim and sand the scoop assembly as necessary, and glue it in place on the main BT50. Using my Herculean thigh as a resilient surface, I pre-roll the scoop end detail pieces with a bamboo chopstick. I then glue them onto the ends of the mounted scoop and let the adhesive dry. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#5
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Now for some technique.
Before filletting the belly scoop to the main BT50, I apply a "fence" of delicate surface blue painter's tape to prevent the fillets from getting onto the gluing lines of the wings--that are very nearby. I then apply the fillets and remove the tape. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#6
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The last act for the night is to assemble the faux engine pods.
I mark the supplied piece of BT60 for slitting, but instead of a knife I use my best Clauss scissors to make the cuts. I then sand the cuts on the Corian slab that's covered with 220 to ensure a flat gluing surface when the time comes to mount them to the model. To prepare the faux engine shells for the intake and exhaust grilles, I hand sand the inside surface at each end. I then prep the laser-cut intake and exhaust grilles, glue them to the inside ends of the shells, and fillet them on the inside with Titebond Red. Tomorrow "The Vixen" will paint the inside surfaces of the engine pods flat black before I mount them to the model. Speaking of "The Vixen", she has brought me an expertly prepared Black and Tan! (she has one of those special spoons.) Good night. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#7
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Using the field tracheotomy scissors I cut out the cardstock trim pieces for the faux engine pods. Employing again my Herculean thigh technique, I pre-roll the trim pieces for the pods, glue them to the pods, and secure the ends with clothespins briefly until the glue sets. The pods are now ready to be painted internally by "The Vixen".
I've also attached and filletted the long launch lug. I'm not a big fan of it's location--on the CL of the belly scoop. I've now mounted, aligned, and filletted the wings and top fin assemblies and installed the engine mount. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#8
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Now for the faux engine pods.
"The Vixen" has blackened the insides of the pod shells. I then take a pod shell and place it where it's going to be mounted on the model and pencil lightly around the shell. I then use an enamel paint marker to blacken the areas of the shell placement so the insides will be painted before painting the model. I'll be using black primer and black enamel topcoats. I then mount the faux engine pods onto the model. TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#9
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My first reaction to the launch lug location was that it could be inside that tube. But it needs to be mounted out that distance from the main body tube, due to the amount of offset of the drop-nose style nose cone, right?
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#10
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Quote:
That's right.
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
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