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  #11  
Old 01-29-2016, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash
Since the fins mount to the wrap, no doubt one would want to use the best glue possible when attaching the wrap. When I built the Apogee Saturn V one way they mentioned also was to wicker thin ca around the edges of the wrap.

I like the strength of the 3M 90 to. I'm going with the 90 and if needed, I will add thin ca on all seams.


Since the fins DO get mounted to the wrap, what is the general consensus for the best adhesive to use to mount the fins strongly to the wrap? Page 5 of the instructions says plastic model cement. Is there anything better, or is it already the best choice?
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2016, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
Since the fins DO get mounted to the wrap, what is the general consensus for the best adhesive to use to mount the fins strongly to the wrap? Page 5 of the instructions says plastic model cement. Is there anything better, or is it already the best choice?


John Boren posted on TRF about building models for a trade show. He mentioned that on his LJII he used medium CA to attach the fins to the wrap.
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  #13  
Old 01-30-2016, 09:24 AM
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Lee, check your PM inbox.
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  #14  
Old 01-30-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tbzep
Lee, check your PM inbox.


Tim, many thanks ... Reply sent.

Everyone, nothing earth-shaking, just a request for a decal file ...
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2016, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
3M 90 is rated as a high strength adhesive.

The last time I bought spray adhesive, all I could find I'd Elmers. I used it on my styrene wraps on the Estes Saturn 1B with excellent results.

I mentioned in another thread that Hobby Lobby carries both 3M 77 and Elmers. The Elmers was about 1/2 the price of the 3M.


I've used the elmers spray craft glue before. At first it works great, after a couple of years it dries out and the lamination came off in places. Not impressed. Always use the 3M Super 77 or the 90 now!

Mike
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  #16  
Old 02-04-2016, 12:50 AM
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Thanks for the heads up on the Elmers. Turns out I use spray glue in my wood shop for a several tasks that aren't permanent so I will likely just use it there.
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  #17  
Old 02-04-2016, 10:23 AM
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Check out Posts 13 & 14 in this thread over on the Other Forum for a brief overview of how the 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive is used on the LJ kit:

http://www.rocketryforum.com/showth...261#post1545261

James
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2016, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
John Boren posted on TRF about building models for a trade show. He mentioned that on his LJII he used medium CA to attach the fins to the wrap.


It looks like I'll definitely be using something other than plastic model cement to attach the fins to the LJII wrap. I mounted all of the OTHER plastic parts to the wrap with plastic model cement and they sloughed right off. It appears that model cement isn't "hot" enough to weld through the wrap. I don't think I want to use Tenax7r and risk crazing the wrap, so I'll try the CA. If the CA tanks--at least I have debonder for it.

--but first I'll hit the wrap with steel wool to give it some "tooth".
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
It looks like I'll definitely be using something other than plastic model cement to attach the fins to the LJII wrap. I mounted all of the OTHER plastic parts to the wrap with plastic model cement and they sloughed right off. It appears that model cement isn't "hot" enough to weld through the wrap. I don't think I want to use Tenax7r and risk crazing the wrap, so I'll try the CA. If the CA tanks--at least I have debonder for it.

--but first I'll hit the wrap with steel wool to give it some "tooth".


Strange, the plastic detail parts worked fine on my LJII kit with the use of Tamiya liquid cement. Any chance that the wrap was already primed and/or painted? That would certainly prevent the cement from working properly.

Tenax should work fine, although you should use a fine paint brush to apply the paint rather than use the fat brush attached to the bottle cap. Using the fine brush will allow you greater control over the glue application, which should prevent any over-application and surface crazing.

Hope this helps,
James
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  #20  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket.aero
Strange, the plastic detail parts worked fine on my LJII kit with the use of Tamiya liquid cement. Any chance that the wrap was already primed and/or painted? That would certainly prevent the cement from working properly.

Tenax should work fine, although you should use a fine paint brush to apply the paint rather than use the fat brush attached to the bottle cap. Using the fine brush will allow you greater control over the glue application, which should prevent any over-application and surface crazing.

Hope this helps,
James


It does help. Thanks! I'll try the Tenax on one of the little strips first.
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