Ye Olde Rocket Forum

Go Back   Ye Olde Rocket Forum > Work Bench > Vendors
User Name
Password
Auctions Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts Search Mark Forums Read


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:28 AM
Jerry Irvine's Avatar
Jerry Irvine Jerry Irvine is offline
Freeform rocketry advocate.
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Claremont, CA "The intellectual capitol of the world."-WSJ
Posts: 3,780
Default Club launch controller?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:40 AM
tbzep's Avatar
tbzep tbzep is offline
Dazed and Confused
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 11,610
Default

Each unit requires 4 AA batteries, potentially giving it 6v for ignition but not much capacity. Unless you use low current matches, you will get similar or possibly less performance than the typical Estes 4 AA systems. Also, I don't see any type of safety on the remote.
__________________
I love sanding.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-14-2016, 08:33 PM
Jerry Irvine's Avatar
Jerry Irvine Jerry Irvine is offline
Freeform rocketry advocate.
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Claremont, CA "The intellectual capitol of the world."-WSJ
Posts: 3,780
Default

They sell "starters" and they are mailable.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-15-2016, 04:23 AM
dhbarr's Avatar
dhbarr dhbarr is offline
Amateur Professional
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: US > OK > NE
Posts: 24
Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
Each unit requires 4 AA batteries, potentially giving it 6v for ignition but not much capacity. Unless you use low current matches, you will get similar or possibly less performance than the typical Estes 4 AA systems. Also, I don't see any type of safety on the remote.


I have one of the smaller of these ( one controller w/four terminals, one four-button remote).

Controller box runs fine on 18650 LiPos, giving 14 volts or so. On the other side, LiFeS2 / FR6 / 15LF / Energizer Ultimate AA's can crank out about 3k mah.

I've only launched some composite d10's and d21's so far ; hoping to try a Green G next week if the weather cooperates. Will try to remember to check back in here with results.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-15-2016, 01:11 PM
tbzep's Avatar
tbzep tbzep is offline
Dazed and Confused
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 11,610
Default

I ordered a dual controller (8 pads) yesterday to try out on my rack launcher. You can get whatever configuration you want on eBay from a USA seller, or get it even cheaper if you eliminate the middle man and get it straight from China/Hong Kong.

I don't want to buy "starters" to use with it because that's another additional cost for schools.

Can a single controller with 18650 LiPo cells do 50 solar igniter launches without a recharge?

What's the best price you've seen on the LiPos? For a dual controller I'd need 8 cells, and IIRC they were running $5-10 per cell last time I looked, which has been a while.
__________________
I love sanding.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-15-2016, 01:23 PM
Jerry Irvine's Avatar
Jerry Irvine Jerry Irvine is offline
Freeform rocketry advocate.
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Claremont, CA "The intellectual capitol of the world."-WSJ
Posts: 3,780
Default

I got some starters and will try them in an APCP motor sometime this week undipped.

Looks like the LIPO's are about $13. You could buy two per unit so you have a spare.

https://www.amazon.com/3000mAh-Rech...ords=18650+LiPo

Last edited by Jerry Irvine : 11-15-2016 at 02:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-16-2016, 11:04 AM
surdumil's Avatar
surdumil surdumil is offline
SAROS Past President
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 60
Default

If LiPo batteries are used, make sure that you do not exceed their maximum rated current output level otherwise you are looking at shortened battery life and possibly a rather expensive, spectacular and difficult-to-extinguish fire.

LiPo's used in the hobby industry generally do not get packed with safety circuitry, so you are likely on your own to defend the battery against shorts and over-current conditions that may lead to its self-immolation.

Lead-acid gel cells, NiCad, and NiMH are quite a bit safer and cheaper for applications where shorting out the battery is a regular possibility.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-16-2016, 02:51 PM
Jerry Irvine's Avatar
Jerry Irvine Jerry Irvine is offline
Freeform rocketry advocate.
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Claremont, CA "The intellectual capitol of the world."-WSJ
Posts: 3,780
Default

Don't use copperheads.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-16-2016, 05:45 PM
tbzep's Avatar
tbzep tbzep is offline
Dazed and Confused
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 11,610
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Irvine
Don't use copperheads.

I think I've only used copperheads on APCP motors two or three times. I tried to use the Quest "tiger tail" copperheads included with their motors for a school launch one time. First and last time I ever used them at a school launch. I very seldomly used the tiger tails for personal launches because Estes used to include a 4th astron/solar igniter in every pack, giving me a huge surplus to use on Quest motors in the tiger tail days.
__________________
I love sanding.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-26-2016, 03:15 PM
ksaves2 ksaves2 is offline
Junior Rocketeer
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1
Default

I suspect the relays in the receiver of that device above may be in the realm of 10 amps limit? I believe most of the pyro stuff is low current. That can be modified by using
a low current relay to switch in a standard car/marine battery.

When I started out 12 years ago I bought a coded transmitter and 8 or so separate receivers.
The transmitter was unique in that there was a switch block on the front of the transmitter
that one could set a code on four switches besides an on/off switch on the side. The receivers had a learning mode and could be trained for the code on the switchblock.

I use the receivers to activate a low amp relay to switch a standard 12V marine or car battery so no issues about burning out the receivers with a dead short.

My procedure is to scramble the switchblock settings and leave the transmitter off. If it were turned on with it scrambled, one can push all the 12 buttons and nothing is going to happen.When ready, I turn the transmitter on, set the proper code on the switches, clear the area and fire. Unfortunately, the transmitter I purchased so long ago is not longer made
with the switchblock coding.

I've seen some situations where a club does a similar thing but puts 4 or more receivers into a box, wire up continuity checks and LEDs. Use a gel cell to power the receivers and marine or car battery to feed standard igniters through a relay Problem with the handheld transmitter is there is only the on/off switch on some units so technically there is no interlock like the one I purchased. I know the Ebay vendors store but don't know if proper to post as it could
be interpreted as advertising.

One could remount the transmitter in some other container and have the associated safety switches but with myself, I won't bother as the coded switchbox is enough.

There is a purpose built launch system out there that is thoughtfully researched with wireless capability but it costs. Very robust and strong but is an investment. Kurt
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:34 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe © 1998-2024