#11
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ALL water-based finishing systems and primers are FAR inferior to just decent solvent based systems, let alone GOOD solvent based finishing systems.
Save ALL the water-based paints for home interior walls. NO steely-eyed missile-man would ever use water-based junk.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#12
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Quote:
Practical experience does not support your conclusion. It must be a human error... While water-based products CAN be somewhat more challenging to use, they've come a long way in the last decade or two from 'the old days'. Even as water based products have improved, solvent based products have, to some extent, deteriorated in quality, depending on what they are... (compared to what they were!) Not all to be sure, but quite a few... Generally speaking, yes it's probably "easier" to get better results from solvent based materials, BUT, there ARE times and uses for which water based products are preferable... And they CAN work well with good techniques and materials, just as solvent based materials don't guarantee any success if one uses poor craftsmanship and techniques and poor quality materials... To each his own... Later! OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#13
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Great concise reply, JR! (I never thought I would be saying that! )
GH- I know of your preference for solvent based systems, and I'll share a secret: Lacquer is my favorite, too. I won't touch enamel: I typically get crap results. But half the time I want to spray, the relative humidity is too high up her in central Indiana for lacquers, or too hot for me to get good results. Blushing and over-drying during spraying are real problems I've faced a lot. Also, there are the fumes during drying. I don't mind them much but they really bug my wife. So, I don't bring a rocket in for sanding of filler primer until a solid two days of outgassing have occurred. And even then I might risk the stink-eye. That bugs me. Anyway, I've become quite adept at airbrush painting to get the kind of results I want to achieve. I'm LPR and low-end MPR only. No big birds for me. Between my airbrush and mini spraygun I'm good to go. The only step for which I don't have a satisfying water-based substitute is the filler primer. I like something with a good high build, and Rusto or Duplicolor lacquer-based Auto fillers set a decent standard. I haven't yet found something that gives comparable results, so I'm interested to hear more about this Griptec stuff. Airbrush examples painted with Createx/AutoAir/Wicked attached below. And the paint holds up... it's flexible and doesn't chip as much as lacquer: |
#14
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Hi Marc,
I would imagine it has reasonably high solids since I cannot shoot it with an airbrush. I'm using an automotive touch-up gun instead since that has a large enough orifice for the paint to flow through. I thought I would have finished painting one or two of the rockets I've primed with the griptec but between work and my OCDness with regards to balsa surface imperfections, All my rockets have yet to get color coats. I'm hoping to finish one next week and if I do, I'll attach a pic here. Roy
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Roy Tuinila CMASS Member NAR #90252 NARTREK Bronze L1 w/Mega Der Red Max on an H87-IM-7 |
#15
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If one has problems with blushing with lacquer/dope due to high-humidity or cold temps, you need to add 'retarder' into your mix.
Brodak sells it. Slows the dry time enough to avoid 'blushing'. Try it, you'll like it.
__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#16
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I finally remembered to post a pic of one of my rockets that used Griptec primer. It's a Defender from Semroc.
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Roy Tuinila CMASS Member NAR #90252 NARTREK Bronze L1 w/Mega Der Red Max on an H87-IM-7 |
#17
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I"ve painted a few things now with the Griptec Primer and have found it works best for me if it is thinned in a 3 parts Griptec to 2 parts water ratio. to apply it I use an automotive touch-up gun with a 0.9 mm or 1.0 mm orifice and air pressure set to 40 PSI.
Pros Water based, easy clean up, no smell, bird safe (my main reason for using it) can be had fairly cheap as long as you don't mind buying a gallon or two at a time. Cons Doesn't build quite as fast as Krylon primer, I would use three coats of Krylon now I use 4 coats of Griptec. I'm assuming it is because I'm thinning it and if I had a better compressor it would be the same or better. Though you can start sanding it after letting it dry for about an hour I find it sands better, doesn't clog your sand paper, if you wait a couple of days.
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Roy Tuinila CMASS Member NAR #90252 NARTREK Bronze L1 w/Mega Der Red Max on an H87-IM-7 |
#18
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Thanks for the follow up on this. I will eventually give the griptec a try!
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