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  #11  
Old 04-29-2017, 05:21 PM
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I may be in the minority here but I'd rather see one large F24, F50, G64, or G78 flame that is larger than any 4xB6 or 4xC6 cluster.
If I was to cluster anything BT-101 based it would be a 3x24mm or 4x24mm. That way you could cluster C11's, D12's, or E12's and actually have a REAL amount of KICK off the pad.
3 or 4 24mm Composite F32's would be a real hoot.
The way most build a Saturn V (or combination/kit bash of the parts) would most certainly result in a super-shred.
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2017, 10:26 AM
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Three views of the lower section with the fins and pod fins attached. Used epoxy for the centering rings to avoid the shrinkage of the yellow glue... The TTW tabs were glued to the main BT and to the MM BT with yellow glue and fillets applied, nothing fancy and I think a common practice for those who always use this method of attaching the fins. I did a dry fit of all the parts and compared it with my Semroc Orion.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2017, 10:42 AM
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Default Upscale Orion Pods Modification.

I am running with the idea of doing this mod for the Orion. Using the F1 engine bells on the pods at an angle. To give some strength I drilled through the top of the F1s and added a wood dowel and glued it with epoxy. Cut 1.5 sections of BT-60 on a mitter at the 22.5 angle. I adjusted these sections so they could slide inside the BT-60 (like a couplers) by cutting vertically and removing some of the BT. Then glued a balsa circle to the angle part. I guess you can figure out the rest. The result are three angled adapter for the pods. I like this arrangement. This is why I mentioned earlier that I had plans for the pods.

I may have to give it a new name as it will be a "modified" upscale of the Orion.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2017, 11:37 AM
Neal Miller Neal Miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosko_racer
Wow, never thought about the cluster option this one. I may consider making an adapter for a cluster (2-4) since I do not intend to put motors on the pods.

Good one jeffyjeep!

Bad news, I already used a BT-55 for the core MM tube thinking that I could get away with a D or an E, will see what my options will be as all the parts so far weight 14.26 oz... The heavy part is the fin/MM assembly part with you will see at a later post. While I consider clustering or not, I will keep tbzep's comments in mind...

The NC was made based on the rocsim file. Three outer layers of 110 cardstock with a BT-55 core and three centering rings (CR), two homemade. I made the shoulder with a piece of BT-101. The tip will be made out of balsa that I intend on making on a press drill. The BT-55 was extended to reach the bottom of the shoulder so that I can add extra weight close to the tip when it comes time to balance this behemoth.

I used epoxy on most of the NC to avoid the shrinkage of the carpenter's glue... that is why it has three layes of cardstock. When I added the 2nd layer I used carpenter's glue on the third CR, not a pretty result. So I added the 3rd layer at the end. Still needs a little work but it is a very solid NC. She weights about 3 oz.




I don't know if anyone pointed it out but the very first design of the Centuri Orion had a nose cone the was a composite of a paper reducer and a small nose cone. I don't recall how long
the kit was produced like this before the nose cone was changed to a blow molded nose cone.
So it looks like you are up-scaling the true classic design, Very Cool Neal Miller
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2017, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neal Miller
I don't know if anyone pointed it out but the very first design of the Centuri Orion had a nose cone the was a composite of a paper reducer and a small nose cone. I don't recall how long
the kit was produced like this before the nose cone was changed to a blow molded nose cone.
So it looks like you are up-scaling the true classic design, Very Cool Neal Miller


I started building the NC close to what you said. The Semroc RKT file for the Orion has the NC in 4 parts, all balsa. But as an upscale NC, the cost for a balsa NC that big would be more than I was willing to pay. I started with the lower portion but later decided on another approach. The outer skin is from a sheet of plastic. It ended up being pretty strong. I am saving it for a later project. The cone to the left is the lower transition that goes over the MM.
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2017, 02:47 PM
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This was the inspiration for Carl to release the Semroc Orion. My son considered building the paper version and I would have turned the balsa tip for it, but Semroc came through with all of the cones needed for him to scratch build it. Your upscale looks great so far.
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2017, 03:01 PM
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2017, 03:00 PM
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... one pic I forgot to post...
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  #19  
Old 05-03-2017, 08:39 PM
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Default Baffle and Upper Core BT-55 Assembly

My little break today was dedicated to put together a baffle from Semroc and assemble the upper portion of the core BT. The baffle has a light coat of epoxy on all surfaces that will face the motor ejection charge and will be placed inside the upper section of the core BT. I keep reading that the recommended location for a baffle is "as far from the motor as possible" with also helps with stability. I calculate that I will have an 8" long payload section for the parachute.

I am also thinking about following an earlier advice of installing a 29mm MM and make a 24mm adapter so that I can fly it on a variety of motors. I can only fly up to "G" at the fields I have access to. This may or may not change...
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2017, 04:03 PM
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Default Time for an update...

Continue this slow build as time permits. Did yellow glue fillets on the fin tabs inside the main BT. Then proceeded to use 15 min epoxy for the outside fillets. They came out nice.

Worked on the pods next. Decided to add two 1/16 diameter dowels to the pod fins that would go through the pod. Once the pods were glued I placed epoxy over the dowels to secure them. I kept turning the rocket as the epoxy was curing so that the epoxy would cure like a cone over the dowel. That worked great on all three pods.

Next was the "angled" F1 Engine Bells. Glued them with epoxy also.
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Last edited by rosko_racer : 05-08-2017 at 04:21 PM.
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