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  #21  
Old 01-16-2018, 12:27 AM
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BEC BEC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
I break the tab off and insert that end at the top of the mount on all my rockets. I don't like the looks of it sticking down, it gets in the way, can ground the igniter on a breezy day, and like you said, keeps you from sitting some rockets on their tails.


I should do that on the next Nova Payloader I build as well. The very first version had a "traditional" motor hook and should have been able to sit on its fins....

This Citation Patriot is a clean-looking model. With well over 400 kits on hand (which is why I'm resisting picking up any more discontinued kits from eRockets/Semroc - see Hustler thread) I'm still going to have to get at least one of these. The closest to it I have in my flyable fleet is a modelrockets.us Big Sharky (which hasn't flown in several years).
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  #22  
Old 01-19-2018, 09:20 PM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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Been busy with work, but I have had time to paint the Patriot. Once again keeping my builds simple, 3 coats of Brodak balsa sealer followed by the top coats, no primer since I am using Old Formula Krylon. Tomorrow I will apply the decals and she will be all done.
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  #23  
Old 01-20-2018, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
LOL! I wasn't paying attention to that. The stuffer tube length is no biggie for me. I don't even mind the blow molded cone where some of these old coots just have to have an injection molded one!
.
Hey, I resemble that remark!
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  #24  
Old 01-20-2018, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulK
Hey, I resemble that remark!





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  #25  
Old 01-20-2018, 12:32 PM
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The decals went on great, much easier than the ALPS foil decals and they look great. The easiest way to apply the large wrap around decal is to apply a good amount of water to the area first and slowly work the decal around the BT squeezing out the air bubbles and making it flat. I think the next time I will trim the wrap around decal a 1/8 of an inch so it does not overlap for a cleaner look. I did end up cutting the Estes logo off one of the Patriot decals so I could apply it to the correct position. The original Patriot has you insert the engine mount until the bottom of the hook is even with the body tube, this version has you align the motor mount tube even with the body tube. I ended up trimming the engine hook so it will now rest on the fins. Good job
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  #26  
Old 01-20-2018, 02:35 PM
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They just don't make 'em like that any more. Oh, wait! They do!
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  #27  
Old 09-26-2018, 12:20 PM
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Another difference in the decals I noticed is the Estes Logo. In the old it had black lettering in a field of white and the rocket was white in a field of black. Compare that to the new version where the lettering is white in a field of black and the rocket is now black in a field of white. Also there some kind of Registered (TM) or Copyright mark at the end of the Estes' name in the new version. Problem is, it's too small for me to make out with my naked eyes, and I don't have a magnifying glass.



Quote:
Originally Posted by scigs30
The original Patriot has you insert the engine mount until the bottom of the hook is even with the body tube, this version has you align the motor mount tube even with the body tube. I ended up trimming the engine hook so it will now rest on the fins. Good job

As to the location of the engine hook (flush with the end of the body tube, or protruding), both vesions of the old instructions are ambiguous.



You could read it as "The engine hook end of the engine mount tube must be even (flush) with the back end of body tube" OR "The engine hook must be even (flush) with the back end of the body tube". I think it's up to the individual builder to determine how they want to interpret it. However, Estes eliminated all doubt of what should be done with the re-release version (tube ends even). Personally, for the classic versions, I'm of the inclination to have the tube ends even.

A couple of other issues I have also concern the engine hook... I recently opened an older Estes kit (a Polaris (1324) with a yellow hang tag and "NEW" on the facecard) and noticed that the engine hook was a tad narrower (measured it to be 2mm wide) than all of the previous versions (1/8"wide) I've futzed with over the years. I wonder if someone with an original bagged version and an original boxed version would measure their engine hooks and get that back to me. The other issue is the location of the hook in the instructions. It seems to be halfway between one of the fins and the launch lug in the instructions. However, there's no mention of another line for it to be placed on, nor does there seem to be any real reason to need to do it. Personally, I suspect it was drawn that way to make it easier to mark the other notes about gluing the ring joint and the location of the launch lug.
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Last edited by K'Tesh : 09-26-2018 at 02:15 PM.
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  #28  
Old 10-07-2018, 04:38 PM
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Looks like I'll be opening my new kit. And buying more.
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  #29  
Old 10-07-2018, 04:57 PM
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Recover it. You can salvage the NC, plastic chute material, and motor hook.
I'd at least save it for the NC. There's tons of stuff that PNC-60AH can be used for.
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  #30  
Old 10-07-2018, 08:19 PM
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I had a water landing of the same BT80 size Phoenix missile on (2) separate occasions. Both times I dried it out to fly again.
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