#11
|
||||
|
||||
Just say NO to ALL water-based paints.
They are ALL crapola compared to dope/lacquer.
__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I think those came a couple of years later. Surprisingly, never owned one.
__________________
Bill Eichelberger NAR 79563 http://wallyum.blogspot.com/ I miss being SAM 0058 Build floor: Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle In paint: Canaroc - Starfighter Scorpion Centuri - Mini Dactyl Estes - F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II, Xarconian Cruiser Semroc - Cyber III Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The problem with canned "air" is that the pressure they deliver varies with temperature. Since the cans get cold as you use them it's hard to get a consistent pressure over time and becomes frustrating, at least that's how I found them to work. It's also (as already pointed out) an expensive alternative in the long run. I'm experimenting with air brushes again myself due to all of the rattle can problems that have come up. What I'm finding is that a good primer still comes from a can; a white sandable seems to work the best for acrylics. And I've had pretty good luck with Createx or Testors acrylic paint. I've been hearing rave reviews about Mission Model paints and will probably try those next time I order from e-Rockets (haven't been able to find them locally.) I've also come to the conclusion that you really need two brushes, a dual action for finishing since you can control the paint as you need it (and get in really close to deliver paint to a specific spot without it getting anywhere else and no runs) and a single action that can deliver large swaths of paint. Best part of a dual action is that you can get away with masking just an immediate area without having to tape off or cover everything else. You can't do that with a rattle can even when they do work.
__________________
Tim NAR 78486 L2 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
For anyone on a budget, an old spare tire can be used as a compressed air source.
Joe |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
I have this compressor that I got from HFT. It is quiet, works well and it is sold by other vendors at a higher price. I am happy with it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-hp...ssor-60329.html |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I have heard the same thing regarding the Mission Models paint. In regarding primer, have you trued Vallejo Primer? It sprays nicely and let it fully cure before sanding it. I use it for my plastic scale models. |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
or, you can get just a tank without the compressor. Then fill it as needed.
__________________
Bernard J. Herman Ohio RLS Starport Sagitta Rockets email bherman@sagittarockets.com NAR # 97971 SR What's your idea on the best way to change Washington D.C.? Let us know at the Cantina Sagitta Cantina We're looking for a few good Catos, please tell us about any you may have had. Survey of Anecdotal Malfunctioning Engines or S.A.M.E. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Kevin, yeah I think you should get the compressor. I'm still new to airbrushing but as I've been thinking about it since I first saw your question, the reasons to airbrush are compelling. Less loss - a small bottle will paint a lot of area. Good control - with a dual action brush you can get right into small areas and deliver just the right amount of paint, but you can also back off and cover a large area. Lot's of paint options - enamels, lacquers, acrylics, etc. (but I'm told if you use oil based products in a brush you won't be able to use water base in it afterward.) I find that acrylics are very light. Down side to acrylics is that that kind of paint doesn't stick like enamels do and also are sensitive to cleaners, especially ammonia. There is a learning curve and an investment in hardware though. For a well done overview on brushes see Don's Airbrush Tips (Google - it'll be at the top). His personal fav is a Badger 155 Anthem for good reasons. My preference is a Paasche VL, but I acknowledge he has way more experience than I do. I think John B. mentioned that he uses a Iwata in another thread. All well made and very usable brushes. Quote:
Thanks for the info, Chris. I'll definitely give Vallejo primer a try.
__________________
Tim NAR 78486 L2 |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Well I bought both an airbrush and the compressor. Unfortunately I had to bring the compressor back, it wouldn’t shut off and the pressure wouldn’t go past 35psi and down to 10psi when I pressed the trigger. I bought the Iwata Neo BCN. I did alright on a piece of body tube to test with. I bought some CreatexWicked colors to try out. I also bought some Pledge Future, this I’m not sure about. I don’t think I sprayed enough. It didn’t flatten to well. It’s shiny but matte looking. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
__________________
Multi Stages Rock Kevin |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
I apply Future with a sponge brush for deep shiny clear coats. If you want to practice cheap, Walmart has 99 cent acrylic paints in arts and crafts. I've even used it on a couple rockets, but I strained it first.
__________________
I love sanding. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|