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  #21  
Old 08-30-2011, 01:17 AM
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Mark II Mark II is offline
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Titebond has always had a white glue in its product line. I have a bottle with an orange-background label that says, "Titebond All Purpose White Glue." It goes on to state that it is "Ideal for Home, Shop & Crafts." It appears to be standard PVA white glue. I have had the bottle for several years.

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  #22  
Old 08-30-2011, 05:27 AM
Bluegrass Rocket Bluegrass Rocket is offline
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Default Ecoglue

Here are some links to the Amazing Ecoglue. The technical data sheet says that it is a "self-cross linking polyvinyl acetate wood adhesive".

Website: http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ecoglue.htm

Technical Data Sheet: http://www.eclecticproducts.com/_tds/eg_tds.pdf
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2011, 11:31 AM
dyaugo dyaugo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Titebond Molding and Trim Glue


Bill


I use Titebond II for fin applications and also for fillets on LPR and MPR and then I apply Titebond Molding and Trim over the fillet, but then again I might use epoxy clay for fillets...it just depends. I also mask off the fillet area. I know I can easily wipe the excess glue, but it does work well with tape and looks nice afterward. Seems to work well for me...as far gluing engines mounts in the airframes and tube couplers etc I use 15 BSI epoxy. It allows plenty of time to move the piece into place.

I used wood glue but, it locks up tight and hardly any work time...has anyone had this problem when installing the engine mounts. I would rather use wood glue because I know it has a strong bond with wood and paper, but it seems just as I'm sliding the mount it sets up on me.

I still have plenty of wood glue left so I won't be buying more anytime soon...I also picked up some Elmers Glue All? Not sure...have to look, but haven't spent much time using it.
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  #24  
Old 08-30-2011, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyaugo
I used wood glue but, it locks up tight and hardly any work time...has anyone had this problem when installing the engine mounts?
This is a well known issue with wood glue. The paper swells resulting in motor mounts and couplers grabbing before they are in position. While I abhor the overuse of epoxy, this is one place where it's well suited. A couple dime-sized drops of resin and hardener mix up quickly and allow plenty of working time while installing motor mounts and couplers. I prefer this over medium CA and other adhesives. (But otherwise, I use mostly wood glue from 1/4A to J power.)

Doug

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  #25  
Old 08-30-2011, 01:55 PM
dyaugo dyaugo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sams
This is a well known issue with wood glue. The paper swells resulting in motor mounts and couplers grabbing before they are in position. While I abhor the overuse of epoxy, this is one place where it's well suited. A couple dime-sized drops of resin and hardener mix up quickly and allow plenty of working time while installing motor mounts and couplers. I prefer this over medium CA and other adhesives. (But otherwise, I use mostly wood glue from 1/4A to J power.)

Doug

.


I agree 100% with you. Wood glue is can be used on just about any size rocket within "REASON" I use milled fiberglass with my mixture to thicken it up and provide extra strength.
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  #26  
Old 08-30-2011, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyaugo
...I also picked up some Elmers Glue All? Not sure...have to look, but haven't spent much time using it.


I've been using it (Elmer's Glue All) for motor mounts and couplers. I don't like the way wood glue sucks a ring in a body tube and ever since it grabbed a motor mount, well, I was very dismayed. Elmer's (or Tite Bond, take your pick) still, is what I put fins on with.
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  #27  
Old 08-30-2011, 04:44 PM
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Went to Lowes today and picked up a bottle of the Translucent WG. Think I'll try it out with a SEMROC Launch Missile that's been crying its eyes out for three years...
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  #28  
Old 08-30-2011, 07:45 PM
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I keep a whole basketful of different adhesives and glues on hand so that I can use the best product for the job. (And I do use them all.) I am eager to check out this new transparent wood glue because I am always interested in new products from Franklin/Titebond.

Gorilla Wood Glue, which I also have, is an excellent product that is nearly, but not totally, colorless when dry. It has a slight brownish tint. Gorilla's white glue is polyurethane-based, like their most well-known adhesive, but is almost colorless. It is not transparent but has a frosted color when it is dry. I guess the idea is that in a joint that is visible, it is less ghastly-looking than the normal P.U. glue. It might not be quite as strong though. I happen to really like Elmer's ProBond polyurethane glue. While it does produce a foamy seam, the foam is more even, with smaller bubbles, so that it doesn't look quite as shattered as the foam produced by the Gorilla product. The foam is also a light tan or straw color, which is less visually offensive.

Off-topic, but while I'm on the subject of Gorilla I want to give a thumb's up to Gorilla super glue, or CA. It is an excellent medium viscosity (gap-filling) cyanoacrilate glue that contains rubber for improved shock tolerance and it comes in what might be the very best CA bottle on the market. The cap is threaded and is air-tight, and it contains a pin inside that fits into the nozzle when the cap is screwed down. This keeps the nozzle open and clear and it also prevents dried glue from building up around the outside of the nozzle.

I have also been very pleased with the performance of Gorilla duct tape. It is by a huge margin the strongest and toughest duct tape that I have ever used. When you slap it down on something, you had better make sure that you get it in the right place, because after that, pal, it ain't going anywhere.
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  #29  
Old 08-30-2011, 08:23 PM
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I'm like you Mark-- I have a box full of glues at my disposal... I mostly use Elmer's Glue-All for white glue stuff (paper>paper, paper>wood, tube couplers, and motor mounts into the main body tube). I like Titebond II yellow wood glue for everything else (wood>paper [fins], centering rings to motor tubes [AR has higher heat resistance than PVA] and of course wood>wood). I use TMTG for fin fillets (I've only had it bubble on me ONCE, and that was because I was laying it on too thick over a gap with air behind it (gluing on SRB's) and had to go back and refill the holes). I usually use it as a 'finish fillet' after gluing the fins on with Titebond II and doing a thin yellow glue fillet with a little extra TBII and whatever gets squeezed out of the double-glue joints... TMTG works VERY well when used over the top of TBII, even if there are pinholes in the TBII.

I have some pink bottle ultra-thin CA from Hobby Lobby that I use mainly to harden balsa cones/transitions and paper cones/transitions... other than that I don't really use it structurally. I have a bottle of yellow medium CA from HL for structural stuff, but I don't really use it either-- more of an 'emergency' type stuff. Various plastic and rubber cements but virtually NEVER use them...

Here's a question for yall...

I got some Plastruct half-rounds today for the cable tunnels on my scratchbuilt BT-80 Saturn V... what's the best way of bonding styrene onto glassine tube/paper wraps??

TIA! OL JR
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  #30  
Old 08-30-2011, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke strawwalker
...



Here's a question for yall...

I got some Plastruct half-rounds today for the cable tunnels on my scratchbuilt BT-80 Saturn V... what's the best way of bonding styrene onto glassine tube/paper wraps??

TIA! OL JR


Contact cement.
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