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Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
Thanks again George. As for the Evergreen Metal Siding, do you know if it's the #4528, 2mm spacing?
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Screw metric. The Evergreen siding is MADE in inch units. And therefore metric "approximations" really f*** things up, especially for those who convert back to inches those approximations which will never be accurate.
Here is a link to what Evergreen offers. Corrugation spacing from .030, .040, .060, .080. .10, and .125 (inches).
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/co...ed-metal-siding
Also, I misremembered the 12" widths come in 24" lengths, not 22".
Anyway, .060" spacing, for 120 corrugations, is 7.2" across. Dividing by Pi, that would be about 2.29" diameter. So, a bit oversize for a BT-70 (2.217"), if curled into a tube to be flush with a BT-70 Service Module.
Also, that Evergreen plastic, at least the .10" spaced sheets I used, is about .04" thick, and the corrugation recesses about .020". So there is a constant thickness of .020 for the rest. So when curled into a tube, the outside diameter is a bit more than it should be from what math indicates (greater than say if one used a sheet of paper of the same width). And therefore that is part of how I arrived at the odd scale factor of 1/39.5, the diameter of the curled Evergreen Metal Siding tube was what everything was based on. Well, technically it was not exactly 1/39.5, it was say 1/39.463 or whatever, and I rounded it up for sanity of scale dimension calculations.
Now actually for my 1/100 model, I was unable to create a perfectly round Tube, it kind of bulged along the seam side (Somehow, Tom Beach managed to do it round). So for a contest (Peanut Scale) 1/100 model, I made an epoxy/fiberglass cloth wraparound. I used the .040" spacing plastic as a mold, carefully poured an epoxy (tinted red for better visibility of bubbles) that was somewhat flexible after curing, making sure to get rid of any bubbles, and laid a sheet of raw fiberglass cloth over it. Then put flat glass over that, added weights to press on it and squeeze out excess epoxy, and let it cure. Afterwards, the epoxy/glass cloth wrap was peeled away, and I had a flexible wrap that I could add to a custom diameter tube I had made, so the final diameter would be correct. But I think it took me about 7 tries to get two "perfect" wraps. Some had pinhole bubbles, and another stretched out of shape as I tried to remove it. That was a method I had learned from John Pursley (for his Saturn-V corrugated wraps).