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  #11  
Old 09-29-2022, 10:05 PM
bguff bguff is offline
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I've had good luck with Duplicolor rattle can primer, then Duplicolor rattle can white paint, then Duplicolor rattle can clear coat. 15 year old saturn painted that way has not yellowed.

Duplicolor rattle cans are meant to match paint used by car manufacturer's. If duplicolor white/clearcoat rattle cans yellowed, there would be upset people presumably.

Duplicolor rattle can prices have inflated sky high (at least where i live). 15-18 dollars for 8oz can (autozone, advanced auto parts), vs 7 dollars for 12oz can of Rustoleum Painters Touch 2x (home depot).

Bob
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  #12  
Old 09-30-2022, 07:00 AM
Bill S Bill S is offline
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I've had good luck with Tamiya synthetic lacquer Pure White, in that it hasn't faded. BUT in warm weather, it starts to get a little "tacky" such that one can leave fingerprints in it.

Which stinks since the paint is otherwise nice. Not happy about it, but I am NOT trying Rustoleum, and Krylon is iffy from what I hear.
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  #13  
Old 09-30-2022, 09:56 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Duplicolor is a lacquer, which flashes off solvents quickly.
Out of all the Enamels, little Testors cans seem best to resist yellowing.
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  #14  
Old 10-01-2022, 04:26 PM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyNoir
Pretty sure it was Rustoleum.


My best example of non-yellowing is my scratch-built Super Orbital Transport. Paint is Rustoleum Semi-Gloss White. This model was finished in 2017 for NSL (and still looks this good.) It is a great balance between glossy and flat glossy enough to be a suitable base for decals, yet I find it less trouble to apply than a really glossy white.

After decals I used Krylon UV-Resistant Acrylic Clear, in Matte. I think it is more realistic than a glossy finish. I have used the Krylon UV-Resistant Acrylic Clear in Gloss to go over flat paint prior to decal application. Then used Matte to restore the flat sheen. I used this technique on the I terceptor-E, whose nose cone is pictured. This was finished in 2018, just before NARAM-60. I have been using the Krylon UV-Resistant Acrylic Clear for 6-7 years, and have had no signs of yellowing. Has never caused any problems over any type of paint.

The only downside is heat and humidity. Flying in arid Colorado helps, it can get very hot here, but we have low humidity. I just keep models in the shade at launches. With heat and humidity, there is really no place to hide. The rockets I had did not like the summertime heat/humidity in places like Geneseo, NY (NSL-2018). If I left a clear-coated rocket out too long, the clear finish started to feel sticky.

The standard OT shown was sprayed with Testors DullCote, and turned horrible shade of yellow, almost brown, within a couple years. A few years later, it had gotten so discolored that I started sanding off the old decals and clearcoat to restore it.
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Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, EAC Firecat (Mini HoJo bash)
In the Paint Shop: Estes 1:100 Saturn 1B (old #2048 kit)
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

Last edited by LeeR : 10-01-2022 at 04:43 PM.
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  #15  
Old 10-02-2022, 02:23 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Testors Dullcote and Glosscote Lacquer clear coats are HORRIBLE when it comes to yellowing.
Possibly the worst. They have a unique (strange) solvent package that no other "lacquer" uses.
Heavy on Ethyl Acetate.
Over dark colors they are fine, over light colors, really LOUSY.
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, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
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