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  #11  
Old 02-09-2020, 09:15 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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While I despise 5 minute epoxy for anything where high strength is needed, for this application it is great.
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2020, 12:38 PM
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I use epoxy--AFTER roughing up the plastic to give it "tooth".
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2020, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
While I despise 5 minute epoxy for anything where high strength is needed, for this application it is great.

Yep, whatever epoxy you happen to have laying around, as long as knock the sheen off the plastic like Jeff mentioned. I'd still rather use something longer than 5 minute, if for no other reason than it usually stinks worse.
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2020, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
Yep, whatever epoxy you happen to have laying around, as long as knock the sheen off the plastic like Jeff mentioned. I'd still rather use something longer than 5 minute, if for no other reason than it usually stinks worse.


If you like horrid smells, you might want to send ghrocketman your address. From some of his posts over the years, I think he could fix you up.
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2020, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
If you like horrid smells, you might want to send ghrocketman your address. From some of his posts over the years, I think he could fix you up.

I'll pass, but somebody ran over a skunk down the road from the house. I can box it up and get it to him at near perfect timing for max rank and liquification. I just need to know soon enough to snag it from the clutches of the buzzards.
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2020, 09:52 AM
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I personally don't like horrific aromas, but I DO like unleashing them on OTHERS.
Watching another person react to a hideous reek is PRICELESS.

There is a product called USSBMO to test deodorants/odor dissipators.
That acronym stands for United States Standard Bathroom Mal Odor.
It is a scent that combines the worst of Sun-Fermented Fecal Matter, Rotting Corpse, Reeking FEET, Kraut/KimChee, and Stinky Cheese.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

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, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

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ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2020, 11:44 AM
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When I did the "Make it, Take it" kits from Estes with the Scouts...
I had them use both Testors for plastic and the green one for wood/paper & metal.
I had them put the plastic cement on the fin can, and the green on the inside of the BT.
Had them twist it so the glues melded together.
Never had a problem, and them young boys were pretty rough on them rockets.
I've used this method myself for years, and have never had a problem with the joint coming apart.
You can also use Epoxy, which I used on the Tail Cone of one of my Bull Pup 12D's because the Testors I had hardened in the tube. And there is no place to get it around here. I have to order it online.
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2020, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcmbanjo
The Fabri-Tac works great for plastic to body tube gluing.



I too normally use epoxy - I use 15 minute for almost everything I epoxy unless I need extra cure time for some reason in which case I'll use 30 minute.
Any reason to use Fabri-Tac instead of epoxy?
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  #19  
Old 10-14-2020, 08:19 PM
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I'm not Chris but I'll answer you, Tim. No mixing and no waste, easier (a little) cleanup, and a more flexible (and therefore resilient) bond are reasons why I use Foam-Tac or Fabri-Tac for those sorts of joints.

Since i made my post in this thread in February, I have used Fabri-Tac as well as Foam-Tac....with similar results and have now gone in that direction over the Formula 560 I posted about then for most applications.

Related to this, I put all the wraps on my Estes 2157 Saturn V with Foam-Tac and boy was that a less nerve-wracking and far less messy process than the 3M77 spray approach. Of course that's a different problem than that posed in the OP.

I expect Foam- or Fabri-Tac weigh less in these applications than any epoxy as well.
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  #20  
Old 10-14-2020, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEC
I'm not Chris but I'll answer you, Tim. No mixing and no waste, easier (a little) cleanup, and a more flexible (and therefore resilient) bond are reasons why I use Foam-Tac or Fabri-Tac for those sorts of joints.

Since i made my post in this thread in February, I have used Fabri-Tac as well as Foam-Tac....with similar results and have now gone in that direction over the Formula 560 I posted about then for most applications.

Related to this, I put all the wraps on my Estes 2157 Saturn V with Foam-Tac and boy was that a less nerve-wracking and far less messy process than the 3M77 spray approach. Of course that's a different problem than that posed in the OP.

I expect Foam- or Fabri-Tac weigh less in these applications than any epoxy as well.


Any idea where they keep the stuff in Hobby Lobby? I've spent more time than I'd like to admit searching H-L for specific items...
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