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  #1  
Old 08-01-2012, 08:46 AM
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Default Estes Pro Series II Nike Smoke question

I'm getting ready to fillet the fins of my Pro Series II Nike Smoke. The instructions don't specify what to fillet them with.

What's the consensus--epoxy? thick CA?

Thanks!
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:55 AM
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I don't have one, but from what I've seen the fins interlock with the centering rings - is a fillet even needed?
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:55 AM
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I would tape around the fin and body tube so the glue only goes where you want it to. I would use epoxy for the the fillet but I actually removed as much glue as possible so the glue really just fills in the space between the fin and body tube. At least this is what I did with my personal model of the Nike Smoke.


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Old 08-01-2012, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadrog
I don't have one, but from what I've seen the fins interlock with the centering rings - is a fillet even needed?


Ditto.

I would think you are good without a true fillet of glue on this one. Gonna run the risk of 'damaging' the scale appearance as well with much of a fillet.

My hope was that those fins could be painted and completely finished before attaching, providing a very nice and clean paint separation between the fins and bodytube.


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  #5  
Old 08-01-2012, 09:39 AM
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A fillet on a through the wall rocket does not serve the same purpose as one on the tube. On the tube a fillet is a reinforcing mechanism akin to a piece of balsa or ply placed align the root edge and body joint. It serves to improve adhesion, but more importantly side to side flex.

On a through the wall fin, the side to side motion is restricted by a LEVER attached in two places at the body wall and at the motor mount tube, sometimes even reinforced from flex by a ring that captures the side of the fin. The only purpose of adhesion is to keep the fin from coming straight out of the hole which can be accomplished by even only the glue at the root edge and FLOAT at the body wall. Additional glue at the body wall further reinforces the removal force and makes flex less or "more brittle". That reduces flutter.

The main reason for a fillet on a TTW fin is not strength but cosmetics.

On USR kits we recommend fillets there to make sanding the wood fins easier when using fillercoat (sanding sealer, which is clear laquer with talc filler) which we recommend for making them waterproof, smooth and slightly stronger.

A real Nike has fins attached with a pole at the centerline of the fin to allow spin adjustment. There is a gap.

I think the Estes fins are plastic so since they are mechanically captured, adhered, and not in need of filling, there is actually no mechanical purpose for a fillet at all.

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Old 08-01-2012, 09:59 AM
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I think I'll go with no fillets at all for a better scale appearance. As for pre-painting the fins, I thought about doing that---and I may do it if I construct another. Thanks
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:04 AM
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BTW, inserting the assembled fins takes some serious effort! It may be better NOT to prepaint them just in case the finish gets blemished during the "struggle".
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:58 PM
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Well, I've decided to apply subtle fillets to the fins. The fins all mounted with a slight gap between the root and the BT. That would be fine if the gap was exactly the same on all of the fins, but they vary by approx. .005". The fillets are purely cosmetic--just filling the gaps.
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2012, 01:58 PM
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Default Burnishing

Since the AWESOME, 3D fins of the Nike are very glossy, I'll buff them with 0000 steel wool before painting. I think I'll do the same thing to the NC----after I clean up and fill it's seams.
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  #10  
Old 08-01-2012, 10:59 PM
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Three coats of primer on the Nike now. I'm glad I did the "filler" fillets. I think it has a more finished look.

Hence:
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