#31
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I have not worked with great amounts of fiberglass but enough to know it can be messy, but in my overall experience, it finishes better (and in some ways easier) than balsa. I built a minimum diameter Vulcan L750 powered all-fiberglass bird for LDRS-10 that I was able to put an almost mirror finish on. It flew to just shy of 19,000 feet. Earl
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Earl L. Cagle, Jr. NAR# 29523 TRA# 962 SAM# 73 Owner/Producer Point 39 Productions Rocket-Brained Since 1970 |
#32
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All fins are now mounted, filleted, and are perfectly arrayed. The alignment was achieved only with the JIPFAT (a stick and 2 clothespins.) I realize full well that the slots helped greatly, but the JIPFAT usually works just as well when the BT is not slotted. The only caveats are there has to be an even number of fins and they have to be evenly spaced.
I inserted a 24MM dummy engine casing into engine mount just to ensure a real engine will go in. It's a slip-fit with absolutely no wobble. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#33
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Launch lug.
This kit includes a plastic (styrene, I believe) 1/8" launch lug. I first mark the mounting location on the BT and then using the Corian board covered with 220 I scrape a slight flat on the LL for it's gluing surface. I then attach the LL to the BT with 15 minute epoxy and hold the alignment by registering a 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angle against it. Yes, this piece of aluminum angle was from the Rokitflite Odyssey kit. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#34
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Now with the LL filleted and the payload/PNC assembly inserted the model is assembled and will be ready for finishing tomorrow--after the Squadron White putty hardens and is sanded at the site where I damaged the edge of the payload tube.
The weight is 3.8 oz. (without engine and laundry.) As for colors: you can't go wrong with yellow and black, so I think I'll go with yellow and black. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#35
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Clean with alcohol, and lightly scuff up the surface of the fins up a bit so the paint will adhere better.
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Enjoy life, it has an expiration date. |
#36
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I've got a crapload of those G55's I bought for a song off the old RocketryOnline auction when RocketVision/Impulse Aerospace closed up shop. I couldn't believe how cheap they were selling for at the time. I believe I also have some of their F72's.
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Scott D. Hansen Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe - Your One Stop BAR Shoppe! Ye Olde Rocket Plans - OOP Rocket Plans From 38 Companies! Ye Olde Rocket Forum WOOSH NAR Section #558 |
#37
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Thanks, will do. I buff everything I paint with steel wool before painting.
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#38
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The model is now in gray primer. There's a few corrections to make--VERY few. I'll use Squadron White putty in the divets in front of the fins. Don't worry, the head of the wood screw is covered with a small disk of tape.
TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 Last edited by jeffyjeep : 08-07-2020 at 11:21 AM. |
#39
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Almost done! The model is now in gloss sun yellow and gloss black. I'll test the vintage decals to see if I need to coat them.
TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#40
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Whoa, it's a good thing I did a test of an unused clear part of the decal sheet! It turned to "slime" in contact with water and then disintegrated. I'll give the sheet a heavy coat of Liquid Decal Film.
TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
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