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New Scans of the Estes Omega (1200)
[EDIT] In my continuing research, I've learned that the kit talked about in this thread was the Omega (kit no. 1200) and not the K-52P (I've edited the following posts to correct the error). Thanks to scigs30, I've now got scans of the Estes Omega K-52P (2-piece PNC-60AH version). [/EDIT]
I just uploaded a new set of scans I took from the Omega (kit no. 1200) I won in LW Bercini's auction. All images are links to the originals on Flickr... Please, Check 'em out! From my research, it appears that this is one of the later Omega's that were produced sometime between 1973(ish) and 1980. I don't know if post 1975 Omega's included the Countdown checklist that shows the Cineroc or not. I have no idea why the Parts list shows this as Kit #1200, as to my knowledge, it always sold as some variation of K-52P. Except for the face card, I cropped my scans to leave an overlap of the background. I realize that this may make some images a little to large to print, but with some minor photo-editing, you should be able to create perfect copies of the originals if you desired (perhaps even be able to bleach out the yellowing and show-through too). I'd liked to have included a ruler, but silly me, I forgot mine at home. Face Card, front and back (16 13/16" x 5" cardstock): Misc papers and parts, front and back (BT-60 Based rocket): The parachute is one of the 18" Orange Sunbursts (and not Red as it might appear on the monitor), the marking guide is white on the backside, centering rings (RA-5060) are white on one side, natural cardboard on the other, and the Tri-fold Parachute mount is blank on the back side. The upside-down paper was rotated so that the same side that was right-side-up in the first (left) image was right-side-up in the second image. Cropped detail shots of the papers (5" x 4 1/4" each) are on the flickr photostream. Rubber Shock Cord (not in the photograph) measured at 22 1/2" x 1/4". Fin patterns (12" x 4" x 1/8" each):
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. . Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some). "The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack." "The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss." Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees. Last edited by K'Tesh : 10-23-2015 at 10:30 AM. |
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Decals, front and back (12 1/4" x 5 9/16"):
According to the color meter at my local Home Depot, the custom color match shade of blue is (Read the underlined section as columns (not rows), and the underlines were needed for spacing): Quote:
I remember that the guy who broke it down for me said that this was per gallon, and was composed of green, blue, a red/brown color, and white. However, I don't know exactly it works. I'm wondering if it's possible to get a can of this shade in a can of spraypaint from an automotive paint supplier (although I've heard it's close to $35/can). That option of course is based on the idea that I may try to imitate Nathan, and spend a summer putting a shine on it that could be used for signaling the ISS. Parts list, and Countdown Checklist (opposite sides of same 8.5" x 11" page): Instructions, front and back (opposite sides of same 11" x 17" page): There are more photos in the flickr photostream, however, I took them with a cell phone, and they're... lets just say... underwhelming. No biggie, I'll pull out the Olympus, and try again. Pointy Side Up! Jim
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. . Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some). "The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack." "The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss." Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees. Last edited by K'Tesh : 01-23-2014 at 12:32 AM. |
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It would be a big help if you put a ruler or something alongside the fins and decals and stuff for scaling purposes... Preserve it for posterity...
Since these are scanned in, perhaps a clothing tape measure, or simply transfer the measurements of a ruler to the edge of the page or to a piece of paper you could scan with them... Later! OL JR
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I've edited the posts to include the measurements that I've taken. I can understand the value of having a ruler in the photos... I forgot mine at home when I took this to school and scanned it. Fortunately, with the measurements provided, a person should be able to print the images and reduce or enlarge them as necessary.
I'd also like to point out the (apparently) silver nose cone 701-K-52P seen on the parts list side of the instruction page. I never knew that it was anything other than black. This is very likely the same rocket used in the 1970 Estes Catalog. However, due to the nature of B&W photography, who can tell?
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. . Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some). "The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack." "The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss." Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees. |
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A good automotive paint can also color match the colors on the decal sheet. However, you will not believe the number of 'whites' that were used on cars throughout the years. You can get the color by the pint, quart, or gallon. Unfortunately, the paint and the necessary equipment is pretty expensive.
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'Til next time, Mike Toelle NAR 31692 L1 SAM 0373 |
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Thanks, Jim.
Very well done.
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If it flies, I can crash it! |
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If you are doing a BIG rocket, automotive paint is a good option. It is fairly (rather) heavy to apply to a LPR, and yes it is expensive. 1/2 pt of non metallic can be had for 30 bucks or so, but that is not the whole story. It you will need hardener $60, reducer $25, and that's fine not on a car, rattle primer will work. You will still need a gun which you can get a touch up gun for $25 or so from harbor freight. And a clean source of air. That is the ouch part. I wound up investing in a decent automotive paint setup at one point to finish some cabinets like the Porsche owned by the client. I did not turn a direct profit on that job.
I have found I'd rather mix color from testors or floquil if you really want to keep weight down and airbrush. Then, it is all in the primer to get a good finish, and sanding is a lot more controllable than applying paint. After being let down by rattle cans on a couple of smaller rockets, I have begun airbrushing everything smaller than 24".
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All you have to do is initiate and propagate a combustive reaction between kerosene and oxygen and direct the resultant gasses through a small aperture in a nozzle at supersonic speed without blowing the whole thing up. It's not rocket science! |
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