#21
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It's still used to glue skin together. It's just medical grade (meaning sterile). I've used hobby grade on myself on several occasions. Just remember that thin fast set CA gets very, very hot when it reacts with the moisture in your skin. Not a big deal unless it's a larger cut that needs a bigger drop of CA.
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I love sanding. |
#22
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The glue I'm using is Elmer's, but it is also labeled "school glue" and "no runs." Seems thick enough to me. It's not runny, so I started using it to "top coat" my standard wood glue fillets. Definitely not runny. I haven't used it to coat the fins yet. First coat on the nose cone was kind of, "meh." I just applied the glue right out of the bottle and rubbed it in and smoothed it with my fingers. Second coat also not very impressive. Third coat is almost dry now, and it's starting to skin over the balsa giving it a plasticky feel. I see where this is going. BTW, I lightly sand between coats.
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-Wolfram v. Kiparski NAR 28643 - TRA 15520 MTMA Section #606 President |
#23
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Okay, then that can work too. But three costs? I've only needed one coat, that may be the difference.
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"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run" http://sandmandecals.com/ |
#24
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How hard does white glue dry? What, if any, conditions re-soften it?
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#25
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Heat softens it to some extent, but it shouldn't be an issue for finishing. It can help you if you've glued on your fins and later look at them from below and notice one isn't 90 deg (or 120 for 3). You can heat the fin with a hair dryer and lean it over without breaking anything.
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I love sanding. |
#26
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I suppose I could have just glopped it on and been done with it in one shot. Sort of a plasti-dip for balsa parts.... The glue is thick enough for doing that. Maybe I'll try that with the fins. But I chose to do thin coats on the nose cone, with light sanding between coats. Pete Alway recommended doing that in his Astrobee 1500 kit that I built, so I just went with that. Makes for a nice looking part.
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-Wolfram v. Kiparski NAR 28643 - TRA 15520 MTMA Section #606 President |
#27
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The cheap hardware stuff is the best. The quick cure good stuff from the hobby store would be hot. That is another danger of sealing with CA. You get too impatient waiting for it to cure, spray on accelerator but there is some drippage on your finger, yikes that's hot! Or taking off the stuck on cap with your teeth and a bit squirts on your lip and tongue! It is just like the old Emergency TV program back in the 70's. Keep the kids, big and small, using Elmer's! |
#28
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Where's that "like" button again?? LOL OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#29
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"Not Very" and "heat" are the answers you're looking for... I've heard of fins attached with white glue "falling over" or "leaning" from being enclosed in a hot car in the summer... I use white glue FOR CERTAIN JOBS in building, but attaching fins isn't one of them. Also, it doesn't sand worth a darn... yellow glue isn't much better on that score. That's why I don't use it for "hardening" balsa cones or transitions or fins-- plus the stuff just flat-out never gets particularly "hard"... Papering fins with regular printer paper wrapped over the leading edge using a THIN application of white glue to bond the paper to the balsa results in 100% sealing of the balsa fin surface and results in a final appearance as good as plastic in most cases, and results in strengthening the fin by probably 3-5X the plain balsa wood strength for VERY little weight gain... about a gram for most fins, at most, from the "bare vs. final finished weight" tests I've done in the past... Well worth a little bit of time to gain that much strength, eliminating the additional steps of hardening, sanding, filling, etc. Too bad papering doesn't work well for the compound curves of a nosecone or transition (though I have applied paper cone skins over wood transitions-- it's a common building practice for "capsule" nosecones in Dr. Zooch kits, and I've used it in scratchbuilds... IMHO, "water thin" CA applications to nosecones followed by thinned-to-consistency-of-hot-dog-mustard Elmer's Wood Filler, followed by sanding, priming, sanding, damp sanding, and painting results in the hardest and most durable, as well as the most "plastic like" finish one can get on balsa cones and transitions... At least from everything I've tried... YMMV and best of luck. OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#30
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Well, I don't agree. CA makes the surface brittle.
__________________
"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run" http://sandmandecals.com/ |
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