#41
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Awesome work! I LOVE the Rokitflite Fake Wulf and the FedEx Interceptor!
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#42
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That's funny, I like them all, but those were the two that really jumped out for me too!
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I plan ahead that way I don't have to do anything right now. Oh by the way, I'm not here just for the "olde" rocket discussions. |
#43
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If Rokitflite gears up for another run of FakeWulf's, I highly recommend getting at least one.
Wotta kit. ***** (five star rating), OD sez check it out.
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#44
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I enjoyed reading this post. I paint a lot of my rockets using spray cans and to be honest it's getting old quick and I would like to learn how to put a better finish on my rockets. I mean they turn out nice don't get me wrong and I take the time to wet sand the finish and spray clear, but I think that learning to use an airbrush would provide a lot more opportunity and allow someone to really put on some unique graphics and more precise paint job, especially when painting scale models. Also it seems as though the quality is more consistent than spray cans. I can't count the number of times I went to paint a rocket and mid way through the paint starts coming out in droplets. I've been using Duplicolor for my paint, but you're limited to color...with an airbrush kit it seems you have a lot more variety. The thing is this..I never used an airbrush and I wouldn't know where to begin. Can you offer any advice on books or DVD's I can purchase or the type of equipment you would recommend. I went to and airbrush website and I was lost, because it seems there are so many types out there to chose from? It's kind of intimidating.. http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/mask.aspx |
#45
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Yes. I would like to have two more Fake Wulfs (Wulves?) and another Odyssey.
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#46
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There really isn't much high-end arcana where it comes to using airbrushes for rocket painting, especially if you use the bigger ones (like the Paasche mentioned earlier) that give a lot of coverage. They 1) definitely give you more control over the application (or what passes for applying basic coats of paint) and 2) you can mix your own colors all day. True, applying masks and such are another factor, but once they're on it's back to applying coats of paint. The kind of high-end artwork you see with airbrushes (space art, auto art, fine art, etc.) is a far cry from BAR needs - unless you want to get fancy!
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#47
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Check out some resources from Kalmbach Publishing the parent of FineScale Modeler magazine. They put out how to airbrush magazines. They are designed for scale modeling, but the hints can be adapted to model rocketry. |
#48
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Just came across this older thread. Good reading. I had thought about using my airbrush, a really old Badger single, but did not think the acrylic paint would be the right type of paint for the paper/balsa. I have used it for doing my clear slot car bodies.
So if I get this correctly, you primer as usual with rattle can primer, then put a base of white or black rattle can or acrylic airbrush, then color via airbrush, then rattle can clear. Is there any bad affects to putting decals over the water based paint, before it is clear coated? I would think as long as it is dry, it should be okay. As far as compressors, I use my 30 gal. shop compressor and just regulate it down. I haven't used a water separator, But , I didn't use it this year where it never seemed to stop raining here in NY, since spring. I probably would have needed it, as everything is so damp. Couple pictures of one of the bodies, the stripes were just taped off before the purple went on, and then painted after. It is painted from the inside, with a white final coat. I can't find a picture of my wizard, which is done in the same color scheme, just in rattle can
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#49
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No. If your color coat is acrylic, then anything above that must be acrylic as well. If you clearcoat with a spraycan, then you will get a crinkle in your finish. Use Future on top of an acrylic colorcoat. Quote:
As long as your acrylic color coat is glossy, you will have no problems with decals, because the decals, while lacquer based, have completely dried. The decal adhesive that holds them to the color coat is water-based, so the decal will not attack the acrylic paint beneath them. Quote:
A water separator has nothing to do with rain, or any atmospheric humidity. A water separator removes water in the delivery line caused by condensation in your air tank caused by the compression of air. When you compress air, it squeezes water out into the tank. The separator traps the water before it goes into the airbrush. Even in the desert, with 0% humidity, you will have condensation inside an air tank. |
#50
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My experience has been different. I've been using Createx acrylics straight from the bottle with no thinning. I've been clear-coating with enamel with no problems what-so-ever.
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