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  #1  
Old 05-27-2010, 07:26 PM
bobdros bobdros is offline
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Default Decal Silvering problems

I'm just finishing up a Centuri Stiletto clone and it's looking pretty good. I got Micro-sol, Set and Decal Film for my decals from Excelsior. I coated them with the film and waited for them to dry. I'm having mixed results. (I'm kind of fussy.) I used the "sol" to place them and that works pretty well.

The decals aren't bad but the clear parts of the decal aren't that clear. I'm guessing that's the silvering I've read about in other threads. I did a search but I wasn't able to find the best way to handle the silvering problem.

Can you give me some suggestions?

(I have a Der Grosser Vati that's ready for decals but I they're pretty big and I want them to look great! If I can do something with the Stiletto I'll know what I have to do for the DGV.)

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 05-28-2010, 06:26 AM
jamjammer53150 jamjammer53150 is offline
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Default waterslide

A few things , you may me seing silvering , maybe not .
1. Make sure where you are to put the decals is smooth , very smooth . Some people use future floor wax , I prefer clear laquer.
Even a 600 grit finish will silver , you need to polish to 8000 grit , even then it can silver , also tack rag the are as well


2. Be sure to let the decals soak long enough , some times if you put themon to quickly you will get gunk .

3. Donr be afraid to use microset , and alot of it . I have set decals that involved weeks of microset , just donr touch them

excelsior are first class , nearly the best I have used ( and i have used alot) . I suspect it is number 1 that is causing it

Another thing , dont panic with some mild silvering as when you over coat it with either future or laquer it will go away
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Last edited by jamjammer53150 : 05-28-2010 at 06:30 AM. Reason: forgot
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:03 AM
bobdros bobdros is offline
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It's interesting that you said to soak them long enough. I thought I read that you should soak them for less than 10 seconds (I waited probably 5) just to loosen them up. I cloned an Interceptor with decals from Tom P and they turned out really, really well. Those decals I soaked for longer (maybe 30 seconds) and I didn't have a lick of problems.

I have a metal flake finish on the Stiletto that I coated with Turtle Wax. (I also put on a clear enamel coat first.) The finish looks good to the eye. I'm not familiar with using higher grits to polish the surface. How does that work?


I put on Micro Set right after I placed the decal. Is that too soon? I checked it this morning and the edges didn't adhere well and were kind of flaky. Should I use the "set" to fix that? The instructions say to apply the "set" and use a paper towel to press on it. Is that right?

I haven't used Future yet. I looked online at Lowes and Home Depot and I didn't see it. I'll have to check the grocery store. Should I coat it first with Future before applying the decals and then another coat after?

I really want my Der Grosser Vati to look nice! (The decals are pretty large and I don't want to mess it up.)
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:13 AM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdros
It's interesting that you said to soak them long enough. I thought I read that you should soak them for less than 10 seconds (I waited probably 5) just to loosen them up. I cloned an Interceptor with decals from Tom P and they turned out really, really well. Those decals I soaked for longer (maybe 30 seconds) and I didn't have a lick of problems.


Some instructions have you to dip for just a few seconds, but then wait a minute to let the water soak through the backing paper to the decal adhesive. Either way, you need to wait until the decal slides very easily before applying.

Quote:
I haven't used Future yet. I looked online at Lowes and Home Depot and I didn't see it. I'll have to check the grocery store. Should I coat it first with Future before applying the decals and then another coat after?


It has a new name now. It's Pledge with Future Future Shine. Some folks coat with Future before and after, but I've had good luck only using it after decal application.

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Old 05-28-2010, 09:31 AM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Micro Scale Liquid Decal Film will "cloud up" if applied in high humidity giving a "silvered" effect.

Another light coat applied when the humidity drops should eliminate that condition.

Also if the decals are applied over a not so glossy surface like a flat paint will do the same thing.

Let me know if you need replacements.
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:20 AM
bobdros bobdros is offline
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I'm still experimenting to learn what and what not to do. I only did a few decals to get a feel for it.

I went out this morning and found the bottle of Pledge With Future. I might try and apply it first to see how the decals apply over it. I'll also apply it to the spots where I put the decals already.

(I told my wife that this is a great hobby for those of us who are perfectionists. It's not a big deal to go back a few steps and re-try what didn't quite work out the first time. The problem becomes, though, not wanting to go forward if you're afraid of screwing up.)

Using Micro Set: What are the steps to making making the decal appear as if it's part of the paint?
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Old 05-28-2010, 11:09 AM
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rokitflite rokitflite is offline
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What you are experiencing is the EXACT same thing I posted about a ways back. Tom got an incorrect batch of paper that got sent to him by the manufacturer (NOT his fault). It loosened up in seconds and would silver on a glass smooth surface (VERY little glue in other words).

Gordon, is that from the batch you just got from him that I advised you to check out? Tom got good stuff back in stock. I got some a few weeks ago and have tested it extensively and it is the good stuff once again.
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  #8  
Old 05-28-2010, 12:04 PM
jamjammer53150 jamjammer53150 is offline
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Default part of the paint

To bury a decal in paint

1. Clean surface
2. Good quality decals (you have those )
3. Let the decals set ( for days)
4. Clear coat. Start with a mist
5. More clear coat
6. Polish

Essentally you want to bury the decal in layers of clear coat . However take note , depending on thesize of the rocket , the clear coat used , how heavy you lay it . You will be adding weight to the rocket .
on a Qmod BullPup each coat of clear added 1.5 grams

So if you are weight conseus , you have to sacrifice the ultimate finish .
In painting Lexan Slot car bodys , people actually mist paint in the air and pas the body through the mist bcause of weight
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  #9  
Old 05-28-2010, 12:19 PM
bobdros bobdros is offline
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I wonder if the decal paper is from the same batch. I got the decals 2 or 3 months ago. (Along with my Orion decals, which I'm priming right now.)

The decals loosened up very quickly and the edges are flaky after drying. Could it be a bad batch of paper?
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  #10  
Old 05-28-2010, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokitflite
What you are experiencing is the EXACT same thing I posted about a ways back. Tom got an incorrect batch of paper that got sent to him by the manufacturer (NOT his fault). It loosened up in seconds and would silver on a glass smooth surface (VERY little glue in other words).

Gordon, is that from the batch you just got from him that I advised you to check out? Tom got good stuff back in stock. I got some a few weeks ago and have tested it extensively and it is the good stuff once again.


The last batch I just got about a month ago.

Not sure if this is the case but it might be.

This is the first decal I've heard of this happening on.

Let's hope it's isolated.

One easy cure I have found is to use Future as the glue. It works pretty good as a decal adheasive. Just be sure to apply more on top to seal them down.

Either way let me know how it turns out.
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