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  #11  
Old 09-15-2021, 07:23 PM
L3Excalibur L3Excalibur is offline
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With the #2001 kit I would 'throw away' the paper + vacuform fin shrouds and balsa fins. I would order a set of replacement fins/shrouds for Boyce Aerospace. The Boyce fins are closer to scale. The single piece Boyce shroud/fins builds MUCH easier and faster. And I personally think it looks better. The Boyce parts have their own flaws but overall result in a better looking model on the pad (again, just my opinion).
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2021, 09:15 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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+1 to what Buzz said above.

The shrouds in the #2001 kit are the same lousy cardboard as the original K-36 kit.
Not good at all.
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  #13  
Old 09-16-2021, 09:32 AM
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tdracer tdracer is offline
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I don't know - I think the paper fin-fairing shrouds are more robust the the vacuform fairings in the 2157 and the balsa fins are far better than early vacuform fins (later 2157 kits had injection molded fins - much better).
That being said, most of the 2157 Saturns I built (and I built a bunch - at least a dozen) I used cast resin fin-fairings from Moldin-Oldies (that was before the 3d printed units were available).

If you go for a 29mm mount you for sure want to replace the stock fin-fairings with something more robust.
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  #14  
Old 09-16-2021, 09:39 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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I have a set of those Resin fin-fairings as well.
Going to use those on my next one.
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  #15  
Old 09-16-2021, 05:54 PM
bobdros bobdros is offline
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Default Boyce Aerospace fins

I'll definitely have to check out their fins. Thanks!
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  #16  
Old 09-17-2021, 12:44 PM
olDave olDave is offline
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Default Don't overlook another approach

Big, heavy, draggy models (that accelerate slowly) can leave the end of a "standard" launch rod with marginal/unsafe flying speed. You need a longer launch rod.

Think about upgrading to larger launch lugs or eye screws to ride on a 1/4 inch launch rod. These can usually be found at your local hdwre stores in lengths of 4 and 6 feet.

Or make the jump to rail buttons, and then you can pick whatever rail length you feel safe with. This will also leave you equipped to fly larger rockets in the future?
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  #17  
Old 09-17-2021, 12:50 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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If you stay with 24mm stock engine mount, you can use up to a 24mm Aerotech F32.
The stock 3' long 3/16" launch rod is sufficient for that.

Going to 1/4" lugs or a longer 4' rod shouldn't hurt anything but would be overkill.
If you plan to exclusively fly on 29mm F engines and above, it would be a good idea.
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  #18  
Old 09-18-2021, 02:44 PM
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tdracer tdracer is offline
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I've been putting rail buttons on all my Estes Saturn V models (at least the ones I plan fly). In addition the advantages of rails being longer than most rods, visually they blend it far better than big lugs (I use black buttons, and locate them in the black roll patterns to help hide them).
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  #19  
Old 09-19-2021, 10:08 AM
bobdros bobdros is offline
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I'll have to look into what needs to be done to use rail buttons. Thanks for the advice!
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  #20  
Old 09-19-2021, 11:41 PM
olDave olDave is offline
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Default Add some hard points (inside)

The changes you need to include (to convert to rail buttons, or eye screws) are really pretty simple. You need to add some fitted blocks of tough wood in a couple corners, tucked against the inside wall of the outer body tube and against a centering ring. You need to fit the blocks against the curve of the body tube and glue solidly in place. You will do this in at least two places, forward and aft, where you would otherwise put your launch lugs. I recommend you start with a 1 inch square of 1/4 inch thick plywood, with the wide face of the block shaped to fit against the body tube. You could get by with a slightly smaller block (3/4 x 3/4?) if you can remember where you put them, so you can still drill thru the middle of the block.
The most tricky part of doing this is remembering exactly where you put the reinforcements so you can later drill a pilot hole thru the middle to mount the buttons. And be sure to line up your reinforcements at the same radial location, so the buttons also line up.
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