#11
|
|||
|
|||
I had the plastic version of the Fin Kwik, and it was a mess.
The pintle, or spindle, or whatever you call the post you mounted the model on, was an engine casing. It had to be built up with adhesive paper, which wasn't an exact thing, and the softness of the paper meant you didn't have a positive vertical fit. If that was off, everything was off! With many years of practice, and the help of tools like the Estes marking guide and a length of metal angle, I can "eyeball" a nearly perfect alignment.
__________________
NAR #27085 - Oregon Rocketry - SAM |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I can relate to this. We all have our own style. I never used the fin guides. Think I tried once, but I’m just faster doing it by eye. In drawing fin lines, I just use a wall molding in the house somewhere. I also mark the Bottom of the tube so I can see exactly where the lines are. This helps Tremendously. Plus I extend the lines a bit beyond the fin tops. Often now, I don’t need lines at all...
__________________
ENGINE COSTS ARE " OUT OF SIGHT " ..... |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
I love sanding. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Of course when it came to needing longer marks for the length of the tube, I used a true square guide. I made a marker out of 2 legs from an AeroTech Mantis launch pad I have. The moldings I used were always straight. If not,,, I used my Expertise.... ! ( worked every time)
__________________
ENGINE COSTS ARE " OUT OF SIGHT " ..... |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I have on of the Estes gray plastic fin jigs.
It's o.k. for flush or nearly flush fins (Astron X-Ray). As many know, when gluing swept/extended fins it can be a bit wobbly using the stacked motor casings. Straight lines, carefully eyeballing one fin at a time has been the best so far here. Bob
__________________
illegitimi non carborundum NAR# 54643 L-1 SAM# 043 AMA# 157091 VRCS# 154 A&P# 42x xx xxxx. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|