#1
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Camroc color film ? Specificaions ?
I've read some threads here from some Camroc owners still flying with B&W film, but was wondering if anyone has tried any color film in the past. I had a Camroc in the '60's, and always wanted to try, as I was doing some home film developement too at the time. Also does anyone know what the aprox. shutter speed /F-stop was ?
Just bought another off of Ebay, so I hope to fool around, (re-live my youth ?) with one again. Thanks, BAR Dave in MI |
#2
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There were some articles in Model Rocketry magazine about using color film, and modifying the Camroc to use your own film
Color Aerial Photography Flynn, George Sep 69 p 19-20High Quality Aerial Photography Fox, Richard Q. Part 1 -Nov 68 p 23-4 These magazines are available online at Ninfinger's site |
#3
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Yeah, you need a glass lens if you want to shoot color. The original film was ASA 400 (Tri-X) so I imagine a similar speed color film would work. I have shot Plus-X (ASA 125) and compensated during processing.
Once I did measure the shutter speed using an IR LED and detector, and measuring the response with an oscilloscope. That was a long time ago and I don't recall the results. Of course it does depend on the condition of the rubber band. How are you thinking of cutting your film? I'll tell you my story on that if you're interested. It was far harder than I thought it would be but it can be done. |
#4
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Heh, I'm surprised we didn't smash our thumbs off in the dark! That was fun.
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Scott D. Hansen Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe - Your One Stop BAR Shoppe! Ye Olde Rocket Plans - OOP Rocket Plans From 38 Companies! Ye Olde Rocket Forum WOOSH NAR Section #558 |
#5
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Thanks for the links to the articles. I had to wait 'till I got away from my dial-up at home to view/print them. A lot of helpful stuff.
As to cutting the film, I've read the "swing the hammer in the dark" threads, and got a good visual, and also a good smile, but I hope for a less violent method. I'm hoping to use something similar to the circle cutter in this link : http://www.badgeaminit.com/114cutacircle.html I have the larger one they sell, as I've been making badges for years, and I beleive that the 1 1/4 " model will cut a 1 1/2 " circle, as you cut the circle larger than the finished badge. It's the best plan I have a the moment, but I was a tool maker for 11 years, so it may change. Does anyone know the thicknes of the film ? I have a lot of plastic shim stock ranging from .0005 to .060 I can practice on, but I'll be danged if I can find any old Camroc negatives.........BAR Dave in MI |
#6
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Just so you know, the Camroc film size is 1 9/16, not 1 1/2. As for the film thickness, the original film was 8 mils thick but current 4x5 sheet film (Plus-X and Tri-X) are 7 mils thick. This won't make any difference.
The polyester base (ESTAR) that film is made from is notoriously difficult to cut. It also rapidly dulls your tools. One of our club members used to work for Kodak and we had several discussions about cutting film. I would caution that any experiments with generic plastic stock will not necessarily apply to cutting 7 mil ESTAR film. What you need is a punch and die. I purchased a couple of 1 9/16 arch punches (Osborne 01054, about $65 each) but that wasn't ideal. You need a die. You can cut it with the arch punch however, but only when you place a thin sheet of copper on a concrete floor, and then put the film on the copper sheet. We experimented for days on various methods of cutting this film. The problem is that you have to hit the punch exactly square and quite hard in order to cut a complete circle from the film. Not easy in total darkness, even with a small square of glow-in-the-dark tape on the punch handle tip! We ended up with a lot more partial cuts for every complete one we got, and like I mentioned the tool dulled rapidly. You also need to keep track of which side is the emulsion. The sheet film has notches cut in the edge to tell you, but when it is a cut circle you have to store them right side up. If you could machine a punch and die then that would be perfect. No one I could find had a ready-made 1 9/16 punch and die set. Quote:
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#7
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You just convinced me I don't ever want to do this Seriously, somebody's gotta want to do this real bad to go to that much trouble. Wonder if Ted Mahler listens in much here? He's quite the vintage Estes guy - that was his Camroc at the DARS Fall Classic contest a few months ago. I wonder if he has any helpful tips to add. Doug . .
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YORF member #11 |
#8
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There has to be a way to build up the film holder just a smidge to keep the film disc secure. I seem to recall someone else here using that punch with success. As soon as I can use both hands I'll play around with it a bit. S. |
#9
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They still make Tri-X? Near the end of my time shooting for the college newspaper in the 80's, they introduced a replacement for Tri-X.....I think it was T-Max. It was supposed to do everything Tri-X could do and be better for pushing. I guess Tri-X was better than Kodak thought, because we were told by our supplier that when they ran out of the Tri-X bulk 100 ft. rolls, we would have to go to the other stuff. I don't think I ever used any T-Max before my time at the paper ended. I do remember a few of the guys buying some of the new film and trying it, but I don't remember what they thought about it. I think I would have remembered if it had been a revelation or a bomb.
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I love sanding. |
#10
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Ilford HP5 is a good replacement for Tri-X. Haven't used T-Max. S. |
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