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  #81  
Old 10-06-2010, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
I use Plastic Wood only for filling LARGE Dents in wood. For small dents I use DuPont Glazing Putty, Bondo Spot glazing Putty, or Squadron White Putty.
I like the spot putties for last second filling. They dry very fast. I'll sometimes get a ding in a primered fin or nosecone, or find a spot I missed, and go to the spot putty.

It's good stuff.

Doug

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  #82  
Old 10-06-2010, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ghrocketman
I dont find the AROMA of most organic solvents to be a stink, most I find to be semi-pleasant.
Same with me, but generally speaking, most folks don't like it.

Doug

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  #83  
Old 10-06-2010, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ghrocketman
You don't need a glove with my fillers either.
Moisten a finger in good old butyrate dope thinner and smooth away.
I'm sure that's really good for you
Doug

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  #84  
Old 10-06-2010, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ghrocketman
You use GLUE to fill the grain in fins ?????
C'mon now....
I do, if the mood strikes me. I usually only do it with the fins of small rockets (a Big Bertha would weigh a ton if I filled its fins using glue, and fins that large might warp). Besides being very strong, glue-filled balsa fins bond readily to body tubes.
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  #85  
Old 10-06-2010, 09:15 PM
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I also use glue to fill small (up to BT-50/ST-10 size) balsa nose cones as well as the tips of sharp-pointed balsa nose cones of all sizes, in order to strengthen the tips.
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  #86  
Old 10-07-2010, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill
After reading that, I bought a bottle to try when I was at Home Depot several days ago....
...

Per my usual procedure, some was squeezed into an old, smaller Elmers Glue-All bottle for easier handling. The original bottle is 8 oz and the nozzle dispenses too much at a time.
I don't remember who first posted this tip, but I've tried it and it works great. I went to my local pharmacy and picked up a couple of those oral syringes that are used to give medicine to babies. I unscrew the top of the glue bottle and draw some up into the syringe, and then use it to lay down a perfect bead of glue right where I want it along the fin joint. If there's any left I shoot it back into the bottle, then pull the plunger out of the barrel and rinse both parts out under warm water from the faucet. The TMTG rinses right out, leaving the me with a clean syringe. It smooths easily with one or two light finger swipes. Heavy or repeated swipes cause it to pull and granulate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
No, I use FnF. Some people now fill the fins before attaching them. I fill them last out of old habit because glue does not bond well to a surface treated with sanding sealer.
I always seal and fill the grain in my fins before bonding them. It is so much less work that way and it has never prevented my fins from attaining a rock solid attachment to the tube. I hate trying to fill and sand them after they are attached. It is so awkward, especially with small fins, and I never get it done as well.

Oddly enough, on the few occasions when I have gotten detached fins, they were fins that had not been sealed or filled before I attached them. But that's probably just a coincidence.
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  #87  
Old 10-07-2010, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
BTW, I HATE FnF. It is usable/serviceable for a ton of things with average results, but is not really good for anything other than filling huge dents in wood. Solvent-based Plastic wood is far superior to FnF for that task.
I do just the opposite. I use DAP Plastic Wood for certain types of severe damage, namely cuts or chips in the edges of fins. I use CWF for shallow repairs. For deep dents or punctures in balsa nose cones and on fin surfaces, I use Aeropoxy Light Filler. It is a 2-part epoxy-based filler that is very light in weight (unlike epoxy adhesive), very spreadable, very sandable and hard as a rock when it has cured. It looks and feels like typical wood filler then, but it is epoxy-hard. It is too much for scratches and spirals but it is great for deep damage. I find that it is much easier to use for large repairs than Plastic Wood. PW starts to set up and granulate the moment that I squeeze it out of the tube, plus I have to repeatedly apply it in very thin layers to get it to adhere to anything other than my fingers. Don't get me wrong - PW is very good stuff, but it has a very specialized use in my workshop. It is very hard to sand after it has cured, though. I have repaired several damaged fin edges with it, and due to its unique qualities, I feel that Plastic Wood is perfect for that use.


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Last edited by Mark II : 10-07-2010 at 12:44 AM.
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  #88  
Old 11-14-2010, 11:20 PM
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Ok. To return to the original topic of the thread - has anyone experienced any structural failures or unusual fin detachments on a model built with the new formulation of Elmer's white glue? I have had a Saki on an A8-3 punch the motor mount out of the BT. My custom is to double fillet the front face of the rings at both the motor tube and body tube but now this has happened. You would think that an A8-3 in a 1.8 oz model would be held in place by friction!
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  #89  
Old 11-15-2010, 12:41 AM
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And a little digging found this in a papermodelers forum from May of this year.

Just recently, I resumed designing/building a card stock electric powered R/C aircraft. It utilizes a lot of glued edge joints and I preferred Elmer's Glue-All for that. However, when I opened a new bottle and started gluing, I found that the glue did not have a very good tack, if any at all. The joints kept opening up after my usual clamp time. I tried mixing that bottle with a known good one and the resulting mixture also had little to no tack. The only difference between the bottles that I could find is that the new one was made in China. Has anyone else used Elmer's Glue-All manufactured in China and found a difference? Maybe I just got a bottle from a bad batch, but I would recommend a test on any bottle made in China on scrap pieces of cardstock before using on anything of importance. I have sent an email to their customer service to let them know of my recent experience. I'll be going out this morning to buy a USA manufactured replacement bottle this morning so i can continue to build. If anyone has had a good experience with Glue-All made in China, let me know so that I won't have to continue to avoid that product unnecessarily.
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