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  #11  
Old 04-27-2020, 04:48 PM
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Earl Earl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
Personally, for a HoJo I prefer Rusto Army Green enamel (original formula) because it's gloss and takes the decals without them "silvering".

I finished this 1:14 scale (with built-up fins) a few days ago. (1) coat of gray primer, (2) coats of white primer, (2) coats of Rusto Army Green gloss enamel, Sandman's decals, solvaset, then (2) coats of Testor's Dullcote lacquer.

It's been sprayed more than a yodeler at a skunk farm. (I just made that one up.)


Working on mine right now to be in the same livery. May I ask what adhesive you used for the perforated mid-body band? It feels kinda fragile and it would not take much ‘glue goo’ to inadvertently fill those perforated holes and loose the effect they are supposed to show.

Earl
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2020, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl
Working on mine right now to be in the same livery. May I ask what adhesive you used for the perforated mid-body band? It feels kinda fragile and it would not take much ‘glue goo’ to inadvertently fill those perforated holes and loose the effect they are supposed to show.

Earl

I just use a VERY thin coat of Titebond red label carpenter’s glue. I spread it on thin and evenly with a piece of 1/16” basswood.
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2020, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
I just use a VERY thin coat of Titebond red label carpenter’s glue. I spread it on thin and evenly with a piece of 1/16” basswood.


Not to hijack this thread any more than I already have, but one last question. I use Titebond original and know it to be water based, which I was afraid might wrinkle the paper wrap band. Is the red label also water based or other? My other consideration was a spray adhesive, figuring it would not be water based and not cause as much potential wrinkling. But if the red is water based also, I’ll probably just go the Titebond route.

Earl
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2020, 12:06 PM
DMKiefer DMKiefer is offline
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More paint problems today. I got rid of the 2X white Rustoleum and used the old white can Rustoleum over 2X gray primer. First coat went on great yesterday. Today I put on a second coat and this happens! Thank goodness I had a new can of acetone and got it all cleaned off quickly. I’m scared to even bother starting over.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2020, 02:59 PM
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Re coat within an hour or after 48 hours.
24 is NOT enough recoat cure time..

Better yet use Testors, Tamiya Lacquer, or Automotive Lacquer.
Going cheap on paint is ALWAYS a mistake.
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2020, 03:03 PM
DMKiefer DMKiefer is offline
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Yes, I waited 24 hours and definitely was not long enough. Thought I’d be safe since the primer was on for a week and the first coat was a very light barely covered coat. I’ve been doing rockets for for forty years and never had these paint issues when I was younger.
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2020, 05:01 PM
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In general, paint seems to be more finicky these days than it did way back when. But yes, 24 hours just too soon to try to recoat with many of today’s paints.

I generally go at least 4-5 days between coats with ANY paint and often times (because I just can’t get back to a given project any sooner) it is something like 8-10 days in most cases.

Earl
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  #18  
Old 04-30-2020, 06:07 PM
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All Rustoleums are 48 HOURS between recoats. Not 47, not 46, 48 full hours and I usually wait a couple more just in case. Those are not advisory, it takes that long for the gases to flash off.

It is not a surprise that if you only waited 24 hours you had a bad result. Even if it feels dry to you, its not. The label says within 1 hour or after 48. You gotta follow the instructions. It's not the paint's fault. . . .
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  #19  
Old 04-30-2020, 06:45 PM
DMKiefer DMKiefer is offline
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Got it!👍
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  #20  
Old 05-01-2020, 08:12 AM
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On a more positive note:

After painting, I take the rocket outside and put it on a stick of some kind in direct sunlight for however much of the day is left. I have a couple of 6 ft. garden stakes from Lowes that fit in 18mm mounts and an old bicycle flag for 13mm rockets. I tend to paint in batches, so I might have two or three rockets outside. I bring them in at night and put them back out in the morning. Basically, if the sun is up, the rockets are outside for that portion of their 48 hour drying period. Starting today, it's going to be 100F+ with humidity around 20%. I believe the sunlight and heat helps the drying process. I haven't had a paint problem in years.
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Awaiting First Launch: Too numerous to count
Finishing: Zooch Saturn V; Alway/Nau BioArcas; Estes Expedition; TLP Standard
Repair/Rescue: Cherokee-D (2); Centuri Nike-Smoke; MX-774
On the Bench: 2650;
Dream Stage: 1/39.37 R-7

Last edited by MarkB. : 05-01-2020 at 10:31 AM.
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