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  #11  
Old 11-08-2011, 08:50 PM
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Mark II Mark II is offline
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I wouldn't advise wet-sanding primer. First of all, it isn't necessary. Second, primer is absorbent, so the you'll transfer moisture into the coat and the paper tube or balsa underneath it. That's not good. Your paint surface should be smooth before you apply the primer to it. Base prep is a a subject for its own thread. Or three. But once you have your base all smooth and filled, apply a nice even coat of primer to it. Lightly sand it with very fine grit sandpaper or, better yet, a sanding sponge. Wipe it down to remove any dust, and then apply your top coats. The only paint layer that I wet-sand is the top layer, and then only if I need to fix minor blemishes.

Whenever I use a water-based sanding sealer like Delta Ceramcoat All Purpose Sealer (which isn't all the time), I also wet-sand that surface. But that's before I ever spray on any primer.

I have no problems with the current formulation of Krylon. The white gloss paint and white primer are both too thin, so I don't use them, but the other ones are fine. I used to have problems with the old version, and I still do too often whenever I try to use it, but not with the new version.

Valspar paint is good. But I really like the new Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x spray paint. The can has a great nozzle (far better than the old one), the paint covers really well and it goes on nice and smooth. And finally, finally, Rust-Oleum has discovered how to make paint with rich, deep and vibrant colors.
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2011, 09:05 PM
chrism chrism is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke strawwalker
I've got a cheapy external mix TSC airbrush that I got last year but I haven't tried it yet.

I've heard that basically you have to "heat set" the acrylics to get them to work or they'll peel right off. I don't like that part of it very much.

You can spray anything through an airbrush if you thin it right... even automotive paint. Just a matter of using the right thinner in the right amount (probably a bit of experimentation required).

So far I've had good luck with the rattlecans so I'm slow to change...

Later! OL JR

I have had success using acrylic hobby paints such as Tamiya, Gunze and Testors Model Master Acryl for painting some of my rockets. Once fully cured, the paint does not peel.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrism
I have had success using acrylic hobby paints such as Tamiya, Gunze and Testors Model Master Acryl for painting some of my rockets. Once fully cured, the paint does not peel.
I have heard that these are all really good. They're hard to find around here, though.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2011, 10:03 AM
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Rich- glad to help !

Brodak Butyrate Dope is actually repackaged full-scale aircraft Randolph Dope.
They have a HUGE color palette compared to the old Pactra Aero Gloss line including clear Nitrate also.
The only thing missing that Aero Gloss offered is Balsa Fillercoat, which is easily re-created by mixing unscented talcum powder with clear butyrate.
Thin with any Butyrate dope thinner, or create your own with a mixture of MEK, MIBK, Toluene, and Acetone in proportions to suit your drying time preferences.
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2011, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrism
I have had success using acrylic hobby paints such as Tamiya, Gunze and Testors Model Master Acryl for painting some of my rockets. Once fully cured, the paint does not peel.


I should clarify... I read awhile back that you have to heat set the paint before you mask off another color or the paint will lift when you peel the masking tape off the model...

Currently being discussed on TRF...

OL JR
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  #16  
Old 11-09-2011, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Brohm
Airbrushes offer a far broader color palette, and a degree of control with accent
and shading that's tough to replicate technique-wise with rattlecans.

And the clean up always seems to take longer than the time spent actually spraying.

Amen.

That's the key disadvantage of using air brushes (and detail guns, etc). You not only spend extra time cleaning, but you probably flush as much paint out of the tool as you applied to the rocket - it can be quite wasteful...unless you're painting a really big rocket.

So I keep coming back to rattle cans. I've had great results with RustOleum (premium), and some good with others, too.

When I get ready to paint a rocket, I always try to use a decor scheme that lets me use rattle cans and avoid the mess of air brushes. I may not get quite the shade of orange I want, but I spend a lot less effort futzing with it.

Doug

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  #17  
Old 11-09-2011, 11:16 AM
raohara raohara is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
The only thing missing that Aero Gloss offered is Balsa Fillercoat...

Is this the stuff?

http://www.midwestproducts.com/stor...t_-_3-12oz.aspx

And as an aside, I have *a bunch* of old (from the '80's?) Aerogloss colored dope. Does this stuff keep?

- Rich
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2011, 11:20 AM
raohara raohara is offline
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On this thread I've seen one vote for wet sanding primer and one vote against. Any other thoughts? Last week I bought a few cans of Dupli-Color Filler Primer and was planning to try wet sanding, but now I am not so sure.

- Rich
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2011, 11:45 AM
chrism chrism is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke strawwalker
I should clarify... I read awhile back that you have to heat set the paint before you mask off another color or the paint will lift when you peel the masking tape off the model...

Currently being discussed on TRF...

OL JR


I never heard of heat set before and I don't frequent TRF that often. I like YORF much better and it's more fun over here.

I also like to build scale models as well as model rockets and I use acrylic paints for my models as well. Some brands of paint resists peeling much better than others. But as a general rule, I would allow the paint to dry for a few days before I would mask it. And in masking, Tamiya tape has a good reputation because it not as sticky and will not pull up the paint. If you use blue painters tape, applying to a window a few times to remove some of its stickiness will help prevent it from pulling up the paint.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:08 PM
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Rich-
Yes that Midwest Balsa Fillercoat is the old Aero Gloss stuff.

I have Pactra Aero Gloss dope in cans so old they do not have zip codes that are still good, so yes the stuff does keep.
If you are interested in selling any of your old stock from the 80's please let me know via PM.
There are some specifics I'm looking for as far as colors, but I'm interested in anything you have in quart cans.

I'm even interested in a Pactra Aero Gloss store display rack. Passed one up on ebay 5 years ago and have been irritated I did that since.
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Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
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ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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