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  #11  
Old 05-20-2013, 10:02 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is online now
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WOW ! Chas actually had luck with FSI E60's ?
I learned VERY quickly NOT to risk any rockets I valued on those disasters.
I lterally had over a 60% cato (M-80 style !) rate with those nightmares labeled as rocket motors. The last 5 or so of them I had I glued dowels to them and launched like a bottle rocket. ONE launched, four catoed on the pad.
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2020, 01:22 PM
RobVG RobVG is offline
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I'm going to use this next time.
I should have used it for my boat.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...51572/205751604
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2020, 01:12 AM
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I use hcmbanjo’s seam filling technique (Chris Michielssen). I read about it on his blog. You use medium CA and put a line of it down the seam. IMPORTANT: Sand it after maybe 90 minutes to a couple hours, before it turns rock hard. I’ve found a second application is usually required for model rocket sized nose cones. On a big nose cone with deeps seams, Ihave used 3. I sand with 220 after each application, taking it down to close to the surface. I switch to 320 to sand it flush with surface. I’ll lightly sand the whole nose cone. It is amazing that the seams absolutely disappear. This process is so much easier than using putty, which can chip out of the seam.

After sanding is done, I’ll wash the cone, let it dry, and hit it with a couple light coats of Tamiya Surface Primer. This primer has no fillers, so it won’t fill in any details that may exist, like canopy or panel lines. Tamiya recommends this product for plastic models, especially if you use their lacquer paints. I’ve used quite a few brands of paint, enamels and lacquers, over it. Great stuff.

Regarding the CA, Chris recommends Dollar Store CA. You get two bottles for a dollar. The little bottles are easy to hold while dispensig the CA along the seams. Two bottles lasts a long time. Here is a picture. I found this CA by tools, and not with other glues, at my Dollar Store.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2020, 03:31 PM
john ager john ager is offline
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First wash with a Scotch Bright pad to get any mold release or oils off the plastic. Next I use a hobby knife to remove the seam lines then sand with 400 then 800. Finally I wash again using dish soap and a scotch bright pad to remove the anything that might be left on the plastic.

Final step before spraying anything is a wipe down with rubbing Alcohol. If the nose cone is white I simply shoot it with a couple of quick coats of adhesion promoter then it's time to paint. If the nose cone is any other color I shoot adhesion promotor then a couple of coats of SEM White high Build primer and let it sit.

I also do a quick wipe down with alcohol between coats. Never know when something is going to drip on the rocket or someone who shouldn’t be messing around gets their hands on it.
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2020, 04:00 PM
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I marinate them in worchestershire sauce and lemon juice...

I usually just hit them with a scotchbrite pad and clean them with alcohol. I have been known to use beeswax tack cloths to remove dust before laying down primer and paint, but it usually isn't necessary. I had a phase where I wanted everything perfect.

If there is a seam that will show, I use Bondo Spot Putty to fill and sand. It is easy to use, available at Walmart or any automotive shop, and dries fast.

Next comes lacquer primer. I don't usually need high build for a plastic cone, but if it's all I've got I use it. I have to use lacquer primer cause it dries fast. If I have to wait very long for slower drying primers, I get out of the mood to sand. Ok, I never really get in the mood, but I get into a tolerable sanding zone.
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2020, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
I marinate them in worchestershire sauce and lemon juice...

I usually just hit them with a scotchbrite pad and clean them with alcohol. I have been known to use beeswax tack cloths to remove dust before laying down primer and paint, but it usually isn't necessary. I had a phase where I wanted everything perfect.

If there is a seam that will show, I use Bondo Spot Putty to fill and sand. It is easy to use, available at Walmart or any automotive shop, and dries fast.

Next comes lacquer primer. I don't usually need high build for a plastic cone, but if it's all I've got I use it. I have to use lacquer primer cause it dries fast. If I have to wait very long for slower drying primers, I get out of the mood to sand. Ok, I never really get in the mood, but I get into a tolerable sanding zone.


Try a nice glass of red wine and some soft music. Generally good for getting in the mood...um, er...ok. Hmmm...you were talking about sanding, weren’t you? Dang. Ok, skip the wine and music. Those won’t help. Well, the wine, maybe. LOTS of it....

Earl
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2020, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl
Well, the wine, maybe. LOTS of it....

Earl

Maybe, but I have a feeling those airfoiled fins won't end up looking too good.
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  #18  
Old 06-15-2020, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
Maybe, but I have a feeling those airfoiled fins won't end up looking too good.


Well, there is that, isnt’t there....

Earl
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  #19  
Old 06-16-2020, 05:08 AM
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I just tell them; "This is going to hurt but it will be OK".
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  #20  
Old 06-16-2020, 09:28 AM
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hcmbanjo hcmbanjo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
I use hcmbanjo’s seam filling technique (Chris Michielssen). I read about it on his blog. You use medium CA and put a line of it down the seam. IMPORTANT: Sand it after maybe 90 minutes to a couple hours, before it turns rock hard. I’ve found a second application is usually required for model rocket sized nose cones. On a big nose cone with deeps seams, Ihave used 3. I sand with 220 after each application, taking it down to close to the surface. I switch to 320 to sand it flush with surface. I’ll lightly sand the whole nose cone. It is amazing that the seams absolutely disappear. This process is so much easier than using putty, which can chip out of the seam.

Regarding the CA, Chris recommends Dollar Store CA. You get two bottles for a dollar. The little bottles are easy to hold while dispensig the CA along the seams. Two bottles lasts a long time. Here is a picture. I found this CA by tools, and not with other glues, at my Dollar Store.


Just used this CA seam fill yesterday on a Green Eggs nose cone.
That bead of CA glue will run, so set up the nose cone horizontally. Takes a while to dry, apply CA on one side seam, let dry before doing the other side.

This CA filler idea came off a guitar repair video. A repairman used it to fill lacquer chips on guitar head stocks. Fill the chip divot, sand to surface and polish. The CA dries clear. When done correctly it isn't seen and saves re-shooting lacquer.
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Last edited by hcmbanjo : 06-16-2020 at 06:52 PM.
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