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  #11  
Old 01-02-2016, 07:38 PM
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jeffyjeep jeffyjeep is offline
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Next I mark the center of the blocks and transfer the mark down the edge of the base and the underside of the base. I then slide the BT100 assembly over the base and transfer the marks onto the BT100. I then remove the BT100.

Next I use the smallest die on my leather punch and punch (8) holes through the BT100. I then reassemble the BT100 onto the base again and mark the center of each hole I just punched. I then remove the BT100. TBC
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2016, 10:53 PM
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I then remove the BT100 again and using a pin vise with a .030" drill I bore a pilot hole at the mark and through the basswood block and the plastic backing.

I then reassemble the BT100 onto the base again, line up the punched holes with the drilled pilot holes and start (8) #2 x 1/2" round head sheet metal screws into the holes. I then tighten them all down.

Time for a Scotch and an IPA (both of which "The Vixen" has already put before me.) Good night.

TBC
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Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

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  #13  
Old 01-03-2016, 12:18 PM
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I again slide the ML parts to together. I run a bead of epoxy onto the top bulkhead of the ascent section and register and hold the bottom bulkhead of the command module onto it until the epoxy sets. I then scarf the LL. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

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  #14  
Old 01-03-2016, 12:24 PM
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Again I slide the assemblies apart and using the leather punch I punch (2) 3/32" holes into base disk of the BT100. I then place the bottom shoroud onto the bottom and the nozzle (no glue) and trace it's edge. I then use the inside cartridge of a ballpoint pen and mark the inside of the bottom disc of the bottom wrap for locations of the screw bosses. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

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  #15  
Old 01-03-2016, 12:36 PM
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Now for the screw bosses of the bottom wrap assembly.

I stack (2) squares of 3/16" basswood (crossgrain) and epoxy them to the disk according to the locations determined by the previous pen marks. The bosses are just a BCH below the top edge of the wrap, so I epoxy a square of .040" styrene to each boss. This has the added benefit of helping to prevent splitting.

I then lay the bottom shroud back onto the bottom of the model and register it to the penciled circle and hold it tightly while I use the pen cartridge through the punched holes to mark the bosses for drilling. I then use the pin vise to drill the holes into the bosses. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

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  #16  
Old 01-03-2016, 02:15 PM
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Now for the legs.

I attach the legs onto the mounting dowels and fish the rubber bands through the holes using a tool that's designed for clearing string and threads from the roller/brush of the vacuum cleaner and then secure them with the .75" long dowels. Obviously, when the rubber bands need to be replaced they'll have to go through the holes in the legs differently, but for now I'll leave them as is.

TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2016, 02:24 PM
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Next, I attach the bottom shroud assembly with (2) #2 x 1/4" long sheet metal screws from the inside of the bottom disk.

I now slide the top sections of the lander onto the "chassis" and run the (8) screws around the bottom rim to hold it on.

THE MOVING PARTS OF THE ML ARE ACCESSIBLE AND SERVICEABLE!

I still have some work to do on the BNC and I still need to mount the satellite dishes before I can paint the lander's body, but this will have to wait until I return from my week-long job in San Diego. TBC
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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2016, 02:16 PM
Shamous Shamous is offline
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Wait a minute, you designed a tool for cleaning string and stuff from the roller of a vacuum cleaner? I want one of those!!!
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2016, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shamous
Wait a minute, you designed a tool for cleaning string and stuff from the roller of a vacuum cleaner? I want one of those!!!


Thanks, but I'm not quite THAT inventive. The vacuum roller brush cleaning tool is from a high-end vacuum cleaner store. The lady that sold me my Sebo X4 included it gratis. I'll see if I still have the packaging for the tool--if I don't drown in San Diego! El Nino is causing some serious flooding.

Ya know, it's ironic that a city that's not below sea level and is on the pacific coast can't get rid of rainwater fast enough to prevent flooding.
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #20  
Old 01-07-2016, 06:42 PM
Ltvscout Ltvscout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
Thanks, but I'm not quite THAT inventive. The vacuum roller brush cleaning tool is from a high-end vacuum cleaner store. The lady that sold me my Sebo X4 included it gratis. I'll see if I still have the packaging for the tool--if I don't drown in San Diego! El Nino is causing some serious flooding.

Looks like an old dental pick will do the same job, for the vacuum cleaner. Dentists toss old picks all the time. Next time you're in getting your teeth cleaned ask them if they have any old ones you can have. I use them all the time for various projects.
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