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  #11  
Old 12-10-2018, 08:05 AM
sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Yes, there is a compatibility mode for executables. But I'm not sure this applies to printer drivers.

The readme file with the downloaded driver package says it works with Win7. So I'll give it a shot. I may even try with Win10.

Re: Win10, I was hesitant to move from Win7 to Win10, but I've migrated 4 of my PCs to Win10, leaving a couple on Win7. I've really had no issues with Win10.

I used the heck out of that ALPS printer for all sorts of photo printing when I first got it. Ink jets tended to get clogged jets if not used daily, which was never an issue for the ALPS wax transfer process. I put it away when I got out of rocketry some 15 years ago (save for a few interludes) and they discontinued the printers.

If it weren't for the ability to do metallics and white, I'd use the laser or inkjet printer I think. I think I have 3 or 4 white cassettes left of the 20 or so cassettes remaining.

Interesting that no one has come out with a replacement for printing white?
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2018, 09:25 AM
aeppel_cpm aeppel_cpm is offline
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You mean like this?
https://www.ghost-white-toner.com/

I haven't tried one (yet) - the cartridge for my printer is special order.

But my printer is near EOL. When I have to get a new one, I'll try to get a model that has US distribution for ghost toner.
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2018, 10:26 AM
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I normally use Krylon UV resistant clear for clearcoating my decals. I do multiple light coats and let it flash between them. Last coat or two is pretty heavy.
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2018, 12:41 PM
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Some of you may know Randy Gilbert. He does a lot of upscales and his own designs, and they are always nicely decaled. I asked him what decal paper he uses, itís Papilio, printed with an inkjet printer. I have notes somewhere, but I believe he clearcoats with Krylon UV-Resistant Acrylic Clear prior to using them. Iíve had great results with these clears on old decals, and as protective coats after applying decals.

I have an old Samsung color laser printer, but quality is poor for decals. I bought a cheap Canon inkjet printer to test. It did a great job test printing on the photo paper I had, so Iím going to try the Papilio.
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  #15  
Old 12-13-2018, 10:13 PM
sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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I was unable to successfully load the new downloaded ALPS drivers on an old XP and a current Win10 laptop.

I found an old 600E Thinkpad that had Win2000 on it, and it had a semi-functional driver embedded, and I was able to install the printer on that laptop. It only has partial functionality as far as the printer's options are concerned.

As a final last-ditch effort, I found the recovery disk for my 20 year old IBM Thinkpad 770 that has Win98 on it and the correct printer driver for the ALPS printer. This is the laptop that I used 7 or 8 years ago to print Taurus II decals.

I put the recovery disk in the CD drive, and after a couple Bios updates, it booted up off the hard drive! A couple re-boots confirmed that it is still functional. Printed a test page from the ALPS printer. So I think I'm golden at this point.

I have 30 cartridges for the ALPS printer, 6 of which are white cartridges. One metallic silver cartridge.

I have 20 years of Thinkpads--about 8 of them, with various operating systems (mostly XP actually) in an old file cabinet. Every single one booted right up (except for the oldest, a 1998 model 770 which eventually did boot) though the batteries are mostly dead.

So now I think I'm set up for making my own decals for a while at least.
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  #16  
Old 07-15-2020, 07:23 PM
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snaquin snaquin is offline
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This is a really good thread that I dug up. Plenty of good information here. I have some of the Clear Metal Foil decal film in Clear and White on order. This will be my first try at printing my own decals soon.

I have a question. For about four years I've had this Epson Expression ET-2650 EcoTank printer where you refill the four separate tanks with ink from bottles. Has anyone used one of these to print color decals? Should I just invest in a cheap HP or EPSON that takes the cartridge inks instead? Just wondering if some ink types work better than others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...e?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks
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  #17  
Old 07-16-2020, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaquin
This is a really good thread that I dug up. Plenty of good information here. I have some of the Clear Metal Foil decal film in Clear and White on order. This will be my first try at printing my own decals soon.

I have a question. For about four years I've had this Epson Expression ET-2650 EcoTank printer where you refill the four separate tanks with ink from bottles. Has anyone used one of these to print color decals? Should I just invest in a cheap HP or EPSON that takes the cartridge inks instead? Just wondering if some ink types work better than others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...e?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks

My wife has an echotank Epson, but I have always used my old classic HP 6940 with steel carcass...yes, steel instead of plastic. Give it a whirl and let us know how it does. I like the way her printer sucks the juice out of those refill bottles.
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  #18  
Old 07-17-2020, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
My wife has an echotank Epson, but I have always used my old classic HP 6940 with steel carcass...yes, steel instead of plastic. Give it a whirl and let us know how it does. I like the way her printer sucks the juice out of those refill bottles.
Thanks for the reply tbzep, I appreciate that. I downloaded the OpenSource Inkscape program last night that GlenP mentioned that he uses and even without checking the tutorials I was able to figure out how to somewhat use it.

It's funny. One review on Amazon someone *supposedly* with Epson replied in the comments to someone questioning one of the echotank printers and said can't use decal paper in the Epson, only the recommended papers. I thought well that sucks. I searched and found a post in a scale modeling forum from guys that use echotank inks and reported good results. I guess we'll find out. I'll let you guys know. I saw where you and Bill E. print your own decals and the results look great. If this doesn't work I'll just buy an inexpensive cartridge printer in HP or EPSON and use it just for decals.

One more quick question. Do you coat after decals are applied and dry with a lacquer based gloss clear coat or acrylic? I know Testors makes clear coats just looking to buy something in a large can from Home Depot, Lowes or Wal_Mart if possible. I'll buy the Testors if you think it does a better job.

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🚀 In Construction: MINI KATANA & Reduced Size MINI KATANA 418
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  #19  
Old 07-17-2020, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaquin
Thanks for the reply tbzep, I appreciate that. I downloaded the OpenSource Inkscape program last night that GlenP mentioned that he uses and even without checking the tutorials I was able to figure out how to somewhat use it.

It's funny. One review on Amazon someone *supposedly* with Epson replied in the comments to someone questioning one of the echotank printers and said can't use decal paper in the Epson, only the recommended papers. I thought well that sucks. I searched and found a post in a scale modeling forum from guys that use echotank inks and reported good results. I guess we'll find out. I'll let you guys know. I saw where you and Bill E. print your own decals and the results look great. If this doesn't work I'll just buy an inexpensive cartridge printer in HP or EPSON and use it just for decals.

One more quick question. Do you coat after decals are applied and dry with a lacquer based gloss clear coat or acrylic? I know Testors makes clear coats just looking to buy something in a large can from Home Depot, Lowes or Wal_Mart if possible. I'll buy the Testors if you think it does a better job.


I trust what the scale model guys say a lot more than someone doing a review on Amazon.

I haven't made any decals in a couple years, but what I do is print them and let them sit overnight. I then give them several coats of Krylon UV resistant clearcoat #1305.

After the 1305 cures, I cut and apply them to the model and let them dry a day or two. I then either coat the whole model with Krylon 1305, or use Future acrylic floor polish with a sponge brush. Future has gone through a few name changes. I think it's currently called Pledge Floor Gloss.
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  #20  
Old 07-19-2020, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
I trust what the scale model guys say a lot more than someone doing a review on Amazon.

I haven't made any decals in a couple years, but what I do is print them and let them sit overnight. I then give them several coats of Krylon UV resistant clearcoat #1305.

After the 1305 cures, I cut and apply them to the model and let them dry a day or two. I then either coat the whole model with Krylon 1305, or use Future acrylic floor polish with a sponge brush. Future has gone through a few name changes. I think it's currently called Pledge Floor Gloss.
My wife used the grocery pick up at Wal-Mart and let them load the Future in her car. Also she did the same for the Krylon UV resistant clear acrylic coating. Michael's had a contactless pick up too, I got two cans it was on sale. When I get my decal sheets in I'm going to give this a try. Appreciate it!
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🚀 In Construction: MINI KATANA & Reduced Size MINI KATANA 418
🚀 In Paint & Detail: USR Banshee
🚀 In Build Queue: InFlight A-20 Demon, SSRS/Crown Upscale Lasor ď163Ē
🚀 In Repair: Semroc SLS Lilí Hustler, Semroc SLS Aero-Dart 1969 Trim
🚀 Launch Countdown: Coming Soon
🚀 Upcoming Launch: Winnsboro, LA
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10/31 - 11/1 rain out dates 11/7 - 11/8
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