#1
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those pesky shock cords
I guess that I'm going to have to relearn something simple at my old age. I had more shock cords break off in the last season than I had in all the previous years in this hobby going back to '73. So what is the best way to mount a shock cord in a little BT-5 or BT-20? These are going to be for little work horse rockets like pop-pods.
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#2
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Kevlar cord tied around the thrust ring, tie the other end to the shock cord.
The old-style Estes fold-mount is very passé.
__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#3
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The tri-fold may be "passé" but, when used with kevlar, works just fine in small tubes.
Kevlar around the thrust ring works great for awhile....but somewhere between 10 and 20 flights it is going to fail from being cooked by ejection charges. Been there, done that. Kevlar in a tri-fold in the usual place below the nose cone is immune to this problem.
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Bernard Cawley NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member SAM 0061 AMA 42160 KG7AIE |
#4
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For pop-pods? I'd use kevlar and use the lariat method. Tie a loop around the nozzle end and run the line up alongside of the motor. Tape the motor in. Done. The line comes out when you remove the motor, so it's replaceable.
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-Wolfram v. Kiparski NAR 28643 - TRA 15520 MTMA Section #606 President |
#5
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I try to set up the pop pods to come down sideways so as lower the risk of kinking the pop pod tube. Just balance with an empty motor casing.
Works well for me. I just tie around the pod's cg, then tape into place. Easily replaceable, if needed. Allen |
#6
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I was wondering if I was using inferior quality kevlar that keeps burning through? Can anybody recommend a good brand of the stuff that doesn't?
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#7
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I use the kevlar from Emma Kites. Lots of sizes available and much cheaper by the spool. Can't give you a website, but they have a strong eBay presence. That's how I found out about them. Shipping takes a while, coming from Japan, though.
Allen |
#8
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Quote:
I use this method on an old Dragonfly pop-pod boost glider a friend gave me. It works great. My kit had an engine hook, so I place the loop around the hook. And another shout out to jeffyjeep! This was several years ago, and Jeff identified this glider (it was mostly built but had no instructions, and I didn’t know what it was.) He sent me the decal for it.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#9
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Just remember that these materials aren't fire proof, but are resistant. In other words, they can burn, but they stop when the heat source is removed. I've had gear over the years that have been made with just about everything DuPont and their competitors could come up with and they all have ended up with burn holes. Some of the fabrics have been Kevlar, Nomex, PBI, PBO, Lenzing, etc. in various blends.
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I love sanding. |
#10
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I’ll add a suggestion from Chris Michielssen (“hcmbanjo” here on YORF). He probably has 4-5 builds going on and is ignoring us ...
One technique of his that works well, if you have a rocket with motor tube mounted with centering rings, is to place a small tube, such as a launch lug, or perhaps small piece of brass tubing, through both rings. A replaceable Kevlar anchor/shock cord can be run thru the tube, with a knot at the aft end of the tube, or loop around the motor tube. I had forgotten about this method, but the post reminded me to consider the technique more often, if I think I might ever get 20 flights on a rocket, like Bernard.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
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