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  #11  
Old 01-06-2021, 11:11 AM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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I've used Future, but IIRC, it was only on Gordy's and Tango Papa's waterslides printed with ALPS printers. I don't recall if I ever did any inkjet decals solely with Future.
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2021, 03:27 PM
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How did this thread go from how to seal inkjet decals to using Future to finish a model, Lee? I mean... look at the title of the thread!
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  #13  
Old 01-06-2021, 03:46 PM
shuyge shuyge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astronwolf
How did this thread go from how to seal inkjet decals to using Future to finish a model, Lee? I mean... look at the title of the thread!


Wolf,

I asked if future could be used to do the clear coating of the decal sheet and apparently it went a little sideways from there...
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2021, 01:51 AM
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I had good luck with the Microscale Liquid Decal Film. There was something else I tried that worked great on the screen printed decals I made, but I'm not sure how it would work on inkjet decals.
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2021, 05:21 AM
A Fish Named Wallyum A Fish Named Wallyum is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuyge
Wolf,

I asked if future could be used to do the clear coating of the decal sheet and apparently it went a little sideways from there...

Sideways is our trademark. I was just about to tell my Teri Garr/UV Clear story.
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2021, 07:18 AM
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In my experience with inkjet printed decals is to go with the "spray on" option. I have always used Krylon Clear UV protective clear (1303 or 1305) like recommended on past posts here. Its the one recommended to clear coat art. Works great on inkjet, as the consensus from other members here. The one think I am careful about when using Krylon clear is that the decal sometimes tends to stretch when applying so keep an eye on your decal when applying. Can anyone comment on this stretching issue?

I have little experience with laser printed decal, the only ones I have are the ones from old SEMROC kits. But I think the Krylon clear will also work good on these.

I have not used an airbrush to clear coat decals so I cannot comment on this option. Neither have I used Testor Enamel clear for decals. I used it back in the day when I was into building plastic model cars.

The Microscale stuff is also good but you have to gently apply it over the inkjet decals as it can smear the ink if it has not had a chance to dry. I used this only on silk screen printed decals (I think that is what the big decals company used to print their decals) to add an extra protective coating before applying to the model. I also found out that Microscale is a little ruff on the metallic surfaces of ALPS printed decals, it tends to crack the metallic, orange peel look.

I only use Pledge as a final clear coat on the entire rocket if I intend on entering it at a competition. Wait to apply after the decals have been applied and the paint has had a chance to cure, about two weeks. You have to lay down the Pledge in sections and wait for it to dry before moving to the next section. I use a sponge brush for this. After the Pledge has had a chance to dry, I give the competition model a final polish with 3M Finesse-It 2 Machine Polish for that extra shine and smoooooooth surface touch... but now I am going off topic.
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2021, 09:57 AM
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Nuthin' wrong with Sideways....Slight Thread-Jakkin' is almost a given !
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2021, 06:43 PM
shuyge shuyge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Nuthin' wrong with Sideways....Slight Thread-Jakkin' is almost a given !


I agree. And I'm also getting used to it
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