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sanding sealer
I've used Aerogloss Sanding Sealer my entire modelling life, but I'm thinking of trying SIG sanding sealer because it's available in pints.
Is there much of a difference between the products? Thanks! Jeff
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#2
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I've found that the SIG sanding sealer really needs to be thinned out, maybe to a 60/40 or even a 70/30 consistancy. It's really thick.
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Got a Caribbean soul I can barely control..... |
#3
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Oh good! Thinning will make the SIG last even longer.
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#4
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Agree that the Sig product is almost the same as Aerogloss but it REALLY needs to be thinned. If you cannot find dope thinner, you can use straight Acetone to thin it if you want really fast drying or straight Toluene (Toluol) if you want the drying somewhat slower.
MIBK (Methyl Isobutyl Ketone), MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), and Xylene (Xylol) can also be used to thin the product and are listed in rate of drying speed from fastest to slowest, all in between Acetone and Toluene. One note: DO NOT use hardware store Lacquer thinner to thin ANY dope but Clear (including sanding sealer) as the Methanol in the mix WILL wreck the dope. Actual Dope thinner is a mix of Toluene, Acetone, MEK, MIBK, with a small amount of Ethyl Acetate in some formulations.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#5
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GH has the dope on dope.
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I love sanding. |
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Yuk, yuk! |
#7
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I was just like you using Aerogloss all the years I built rocket. It took forever for me to fill anything in. Ever since joining this forum and switched to Elmers fill and finish, I never looked back.
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#8
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Yep. When it comes to the chemistry of rocketry, GH has it going on. Greg |
#9
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I VASTLY prefer using Aerogloss Balsa Fillercoat and Sanding Sealer "olde tyme" solvent-based dope finishing systems to ANY of that water-based "Fill and Finish" GUFF for several reasons.
1) Dope based systems are FAR less messy to finish fins/cones than the Elmers stuff that makes a dusty mess ALL OVER EVERYTHING the minute you hit it with a piece of sandpaper. 2) Dope undercoat finishing of balsa/other woods is compatible with ALL topcoat systems whereas Fill n' Finish is NOT compatible with color dope topcoats and is only marginally compatible with lacquers. If the correct primer is used one can topcoat the water-based filler GUFF with Lacquer. 3) The water based fillers have much higher potential to WARP balsa fins. If you want quick and easy, but messy use the water based stuff. If you want a really good finish, use dope-based fillers to seal wood. It used to be I would use the Elmers to fill in deep dents in balsa cones but I have scrapped using it even for that. I changed to solvent-based Plastic Wood, which is almost as good as the old-tyme Pactra Aero Gloss Plastic Balsa that has been gone for over 20 years.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#10
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When I used Plastic Wood the other day, as soon as I "uncorked" that stuff and the aroma hit my nose, I was in my 'teens again, putting together my stick-n-paper Sopwith Camel. Ah, good times. Greg |
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