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  #21  
Old 07-21-2011, 10:03 AM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetlag
All of the above humidity complaints are why I prefer to paint in air conditioning. Here in Columbia, the heat index today will be around 115F with an air temp of 103F. If I waited until conditions were right, I'd have to wait until Fall/Winter to get any painting done.
You folks need to go to the Wally Fart and buy an air conditioner for your shop. You'll be glad you did.
Gordy, I can't believe you have not done that already!

Allen


My shop is a pole barn.

Not real easy to add efficient A/C.

I just work and sweat.
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  #22  
Old 07-21-2011, 10:17 AM
jetlag jetlag is offline
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Well, Gordy, you need to make you a paint booth/room in the barn and A/C it. I know, a lot easier said than done, right? But with your considerable talents, you should be able to make it happen!
What's a pole barn---or---is it different than a standard barn?

Allen
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  #23  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:12 PM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetlag
Well, Gordy, you need to make you a paint booth/room in the barn and A/C it. I know, a lot easier said than done, right? But with your considerable talents, you should be able to make it happen!
What's a pole barn---or---is it different than a standard barn?

Allen


A "Pole Barn" refers to the way the building is built.

Instead of a foundation and 2 x 4 walls a pole barn it based on a bunch of pressure treated poles (6" x 6" and 6" x 8") set in bored holes in the ground and filled with cement set on 8 foot center then linked with 2 x 4's run horizontally between the pole.

Trusses are placed on top for the roof, siding is nailed to the sides and a poured concrete floor.

Pretty cheap construction really and you get a lot of space for a relatively cheap outlay of cash.

Mine was a kit I purchased in 1985.
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:29 PM
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jharding58 jharding58 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
My shop is a pole barn.

Not real easy to add efficient A/C.

I just work and sweat.


The sweat adds to the durability of machined balsa pieces - not to mention the aromatic nature of freshly delivered cones.
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  #25  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:29 PM
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Gary Byrum Gary Byrum is offline
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@ Sandman...That pretty groovy man. Unfortunately for some of us, we have our shops inside our homes where no painting can be done. Too bad I don't own this property or I'd have an out building / shop here. I already have the spare AC.
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  #26  
Old 07-22-2011, 02:37 PM
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luke strawwalker luke strawwalker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
Currently here in Michigan it's freakin' miserable out!

High of 99 degrees today with the humidity well over 90%.

My concrete floor being cooler is actually damp!

OK, my dogs love that part!

I worked out in my "un-airconditioned" shop yesterday and had to change my soaking wet shirt 3 times!

NO PAINTING today!

The only good thing was using Gorilla glue. It cures with moisture and I didn't need to use any water to wet one part to be glued.

I just wiped it on my forehead (yea, gross).

The blushing in the paint on high humidity days is from the relative rapid cooling of the spray paint.

The paint in the can is the same temperature as the outside air but, when it sprays out it rapidly expands which means that the same amount of heat in the paint is now occupying a much larger volume. That's basically how an air conditioner/refrigerator works.

You can experience this with spray on deodorant. It's always cold when the spray hits your pits. Exactly the same thing!

The abrupt drop in temperature causes the high humidity in the surrounding air to condense.

The condensed moisture on the paint surface is what causes the blushing.

Most light colors get a flat finish from this blushing but dark colors really get crappy! Cloudy, rainbow effect...not pretty!

The only cure is to refinish on a dryer day.


Interesting description...

If this is true, then raising the latent heat of the paint would help or even eliminate the problem--

Put the paint can into hot water for a few minutes to increase the heat of the paint inside it. That way, when it's sprayed out of the can and expands, it cools, but not below the dew point of the outside air, eliminating the condensation problem. Bringing cans from a cooler/colder environment into the hot humid outside air would exacerbate the problem, having exactly the opposite effect of heating the can.

Additionally, heating the can somewhat would raise the propellant vapor pressure and should result in a finer spray droplet size and wider pattern, and have a slight effect at reducing the viscosity of the paint.

I know it really helps to dunk a can of freon in hot water before/while putting it into a car AC system... the hot freon boils off easier and has a higher vapor pressure in the can, forcing it into the AC system faster. (Freon cans will completely frost over to the liquid level sometimes when putting it into an empty AC system). I typically set the can on either a heater hose, radiator hose, or the manifold to thoroughly heat the can and force as much freon out into the system as I possibly can before disconnecting it as well...

Interesting ideas! OL JR
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